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The Lonely Men at the End of the World

世界尽头的孤独男人们
In Patagonia, los puesteros look after other people’s livestock for not very much money, and sometimes go months without seeing anyone else.
在巴塔哥尼亚,puesteros 替别人照看牲畜,挣不了几个钱,有时一连几个月见不到任何人。
A man looking out of a window.
Photographs by Pie Aerts

The landscape in the southernmost part of Chilean Patagonia, often called the End of the World, has a post-apocalyptic quality. At the final stop, so to speak, before Antarctica, the weather is harshly volatile, and in the wilderness surrounding the few small cities and towns, civilization dwindles almost to nothing. Most of the human presence in that region is transient—tourists who marvel at nature and soon depart. But a small number of people do live on the land, in isolated cabins, often going weeks, and sometimes months, without seeing one another, or anyone else. Known as puesteros, they are solitary men employed by landowners to look after ranches and livestock. Because this onerous and not very lucrative work is unappealing to younger generations, the puesteros are an aging breed, with few lined up to replace them.

智利巴塔哥尼亚最南端,常被称为“世界尽头”,那里的地貌有一种后末日般的质感。在抵达南极洲之前的最后一站,天气严酷多变,在为数不多的几座小城小镇周围的荒野中,文明几乎消减至无。那一带的人类痕迹大多是短暂的——游客惊叹于自然,随即离去。但也有极少数人真正生活在这片土地上,住在与世隔绝的小屋里,常常数周、有时数月见不到彼此,也见不到任何人。他们被称为 puesteros,是受雇于地主的孤独牧人,负责照看牧场和牲畜。由于这份繁重且收入微薄的工作对年轻一代毫无吸引力,puesteros 是一个正在老去的群体,几乎没有人排队接替他们。
A tree in a landscape.

In 2018, during a nine-month stay in Patagonia, the Dutch photographer Pie Aerts often spotted puesteros from a distance: lone figures atop horses, silhouetted against the horizon. “In that huge landscape, they appeared stoic, but extremely vulnerable, as well,” Aerts told me recently. Those distant encounters were the whole of his contact with the men during that trip; it wasn’t until the compulsory lockdown of 2020, which Aerts endured back home, in Amsterdam, that he began to consider the effects of prolonged isolation. Recalling his visions of puesteros, he searched for more information online and came across a short documentary that chronicled their seclusion. He reached out to the film’s director, Matías Bolla, an Australian filmmaker of Chilean descent who was also spending quarantine in his home country. The exchange led the pair back to Chile in 2022, on the first of several trips that have resulted in a feature-length film, currently in post-production, and the photo book “Coirón” (GOST Books), which takes its title from an unusually resilient grass that is native to the region.

2018年,在巴塔哥尼亚停留的九个月里,荷兰摄影师皮耶·阿尔茨(Pie Aerts)常常远远望见 puesteros:马背上的孤影,映在地平线上。“在那片巨大的风景中,他们显得坚忍,但也极其脆弱。”阿尔茨近日告诉我。那些远距离的相遇,是那次旅途中他与这些人的全部接触;直到2020年强制封锁期间——阿尔茨在阿姆斯特丹的家中度过——他才开始思考长期隔绝的影响。回想起那些 puesteros 的身影,他在网上搜寻更多信息,看到一部记录他们隐居生活的短片。他联系了影片导演马蒂亚斯·博拉(Matías Bolla),一位智利裔澳大利亚电影人,当时也在祖国隔离。这次交流让两人于2022年重返智利,此后多次往返,最终完成了一部长片(目前正在后期制作中)和摄影集《Coirón》(GOST Books 出版)。书名取自当地一种异常坚韧的原生草。
A man seated at a dining table.
Image may contain Face Head Person Adult Photography Portrait and Sitting

The book features portraits of puesteros between shots of domestic settings and local landscapes—the little that belongs to them and the vastness that does not. Though Aerts initially intended to focus on solitude, he came to see that the lives of these men were equally shaped by precarity and dispossession, by “the fear of retirement that they all carry, with few pension funds or social-welfare conditions for them in place,” Aerts said. He quoted a puestero who said, “What a shame to come to love the land that will never be mine.” In one photo from the book, two paltry berries rest on a man’s open palm, fresh soil under his fingernails.

这本摄影集在家庭场景与本地风景之间穿插 puesteros 的肖像——那些属于他们的微薄之物,与不属于他们的广袤天地。尽管阿尔茨最初想聚焦于孤独,他逐渐意识到,这些人的生活同样被不稳定与被剥夺感所塑造,被“他们每个人背负的对退休的恐惧——几乎没有养老金,也没有为他们设立的社会福利条件”所塑造,阿尔茨说。他引用一位 puestero 的话:“爱上了永远不会属于我的土地,多么遗憾。”书中有一张照片,两颗瘦小的浆果搁在一个男人摊开的手掌上,指甲缝里还沾着新鲜的泥土。
A hand holding strawberries.
A bedroom with many posters.
A man seated on a couch.

Outside the modest cabins, seasons pass. One stands starkly in the dead white of winter; another appears almost to melt into the pink-hued mountains surrounding it. Inside the homes, sunlight falls on faded posters, worn furniture, and an old radio by a window. Other photos present less legible scenarios. There is a taxidermied puma lying in the middle of an abandoned room, five taxidermied armadillos arranged on a couch, three mattresses collapsed under an overcast sky. These images baffle, then linger, suggesting that life in this remote countryside is stranger than we may understand it to be.

在简陋的小屋外,四季流转。一座小屋突兀地立在死白的冬日里;另一座几乎融化在周围泛着粉色的山峦之中。屋内,阳光落在褪色的海报、破旧的家具和窗边一台老收音机上。另一些照片呈现的是更难解读的场景。一只做成标本的美洲狮躺在废弃房间的正中央,五只犰狳标本排列在沙发上,三张床垫在阴沉的天空下塌陷着。这些画面令人困惑,继而挥之不去,暗示着这片偏远乡野的生活比我们所能理解的更为奇异。
Old mattresses in an arid landscape.
A many laying down.
Taxidermy armadillos on a couch.

Aerts is not fluent in Spanish; during visits with the men, Bolla conducted interviews while Aerts sat in the background, absorbing what he could. This turned out to be a fertile constraint. His relationships with the puesteros were largely built on nonverbal exchanges: playing music, cooking dinner, sharing in stillness. “Sometimes it was required to sit in a room and not speak at all, just listening to the wind,” Aerts said. “It was a big shock for me, coming from a world where everything is so connected, and where we’re always filling the void.” Silence is palpable in the portraits of the men, photographs that show hardship coexisting with resilience, that quiver with pathos but do not collapse.

阿尔茨的西班牙语并不流利;拜访这些人的时候,博拉负责访谈,阿尔茨坐在一旁,尽力吸收他能理解的一切。这反而成了一种富有成效的限制。他与 puesteros 的关系很大程度上建立在非语言交流之上:弹奏音乐、做晚饭、共享静默。“有时候需要坐在一个房间里,完全不说话,只是听风。”阿尔茨说,“对我来说是个巨大的冲击,因为我来自一个一切都紧密相连的世界,我们总在填补空白。”静默在这些男人的肖像中清晰可感,这些照片展示着艰辛与坚韧并存,带着悲悯的颤动,却不至崩塌。
A sunset or sunrise.

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