D.C. Postcard

The Great American State Flop

美利坚大翻车博览会
Was Donald Trump’s fair for the country’s two-hundred-and-fiftieth more funeral than party? Swing by the Washington, D.C., booth to find out.
唐纳德·特朗普为美国建国两百五十周年办的这场盛会,究竟是葬礼还是派对?不妨去华盛顿特区的展位转转,一探究竟。
Amusement park with a ferris wheel.
Illustration by João Fazenda

In the middle of the Great American State Fair, fifty yards or so from a scaled-down model of the triumphal arch that President Donald Trump is threatening to build (it reminded some visitors of the botched, runty Stonehenge in “This Is Spinal Tap”), sat a booth not for a state but for a federal district—Washington, D.C. The booth was similar to the others that occupied the National Mall for the sixteen-day event. Two walls had boards on which visitors could write their names or draw pictures; one had maps, inviting people to stick a pin to show where they were from. In two corners were lists of fast facts. Who knew that go-go, a percussion-heavy funk subgenre, is Washington’s official music? In another corner stood a plastic Yoshino cherry tree—the variety that lines the Tidal Basin—which people were encouraged to festoon with uplifting messages written on what looked like price tags. Holding down the booth was a team from Destination DC, the District’s tourism arm; the aim, a statement said, was to show “the culture of Washingtonians who live, work and thrive in our city.”

在美利坚大博览会(Great American State Fair)的中央,离特朗普总统扬言要建的那座凯旋门微缩模型大约五十码——这模型让一些参观者想起了《摇滚万万岁》里那个搞砸了的矮墩墩的巨石阵——坐落着一个展位,不属于任何一个州,而属于一个联邦特区:华盛顿哥伦比亚特区。这个展位和国家广场上为这场十六天活动搭起的其他展位大同小异。两面墙上挂着板子,参观者可以在上面签名或画画;一面墙上挂着地图,邀请人们用图钉标出自己的家乡。两个角落里列着一些冷知识。比如,谁知道打击乐驱动的放克子流派“go-go”是华盛顿的官方音乐?另一个角落立着一棵塑料染井吉野樱——就是潮汐湖畔种的那种——鼓励人们把励志的话写在看起来像价签的纸条上,挂满枝头。守着展位的是特区旅游推广机构“目的地DC”的团队;一份声明说,目的是展示“在我们城市生活、工作、蓬勃发展的华盛顿人的文化”。

“I’m enjoying myself,” Romeo Guerrero, a retiree from St. Cloud, Florida, said. He was visiting, with his wife, for the first time. “It’s a beautiful city. People are very kind. If you listen to the news, it feels like it’s militarized. It’s not. Everybody’s helpful. There’s a lot of food.” The Guerreros had gone to the fair’s opening ceremony to hear the President, whose rally-style speech substituted for the slew of musical artists who had backed out after learning of the event’s partisan origins.

“我挺享受的,”来自佛罗里达州圣克劳德的退休老人罗密欧·格雷罗(Romeo Guerrero)说。他和妻子第一次来华盛顿。“这座城市很美。人也很友善。你要是听新闻,会觉得这里像戒严了一样。根本不是。大家都乐于助人。吃的东西也很多。”格雷罗夫妇去参加了博览会的开幕式,听了总统讲话。那是一场集会风格的演说,替代了一众原本要来的音乐人——他们在得知这场活动背后的党派背景后,纷纷退出了。

For all the politics involved in the fair’s conception, and all the tumult between the District and the President since his reascension, the vibe was mostly apolitical. The D.C. booth contained no reference to the compromise between Northern and Southern states that led to the city’s creation, in 1790, and no mention of the Home Rule Act, which allowed D.C. limited self-governance fifty-three years ago. The only nod to the National Guard troops that Trump deployed in the capital last year were the troops themselves, stationed around the fair.

尽管博览会的构想充满了政治算计,自特朗普重新上台以来特区与总统之间也风波不断,但现场的氛围大体上无关政治。特区展位里,既没有提及1790年南北各州妥协导致这座城市诞生的历史,也没有提到五十三年前让特区获得有限自治权的《地方自治法》。唯一让人想起特朗普去年向首都部署国民警卫队的,是那些部署在博览会周围的士兵本身。

Jim Grossman, a former executive director of the American Historical Association, wandered in. “So far, it meets my low expectations,” he said. He attributed those not to the D.C. booth’s staff but to the fair’s Trump-affiliated organizers. He had some notes on how the booth could have been improved: “Better representation of the District’s diversity, and a better representation of disenfranchisement, which is part of the District’s identity. There’s no indication of taxation without representation.”

美国历史协会前执行主任吉姆·格罗斯曼(Jim Grossman)信步走了进来。“到目前为止,它符合我较低的预期,”他说。他把这归咎于博览会与特朗普有关联的组织者,而非特区展位的工作人员。他对展位如何改进提了几点意见:“应该更好地展现特区的多样性,更好地展现被剥夺选举权这一特区身份认同的一部分。这里完全没有体现‘无代表,不纳税’。”

Mary S. Templeton, a retired nurse who has lived in D.C. since 1968, was “delighted” with the fair, but said that the District’s fight for statehood “should be emphasized everywhere.” Her husband chimed in: “Our population is greater than two states’!”

玛丽·S·坦普尔顿(Mary S. Templeton)是一位退休护士,自1968年起就住在特区。她对博览会感到“欣喜”,但表示特区争取州权的斗争“应该处处强调”。她的丈夫插话道:“我们的人口比两个州还多!”
Couple sitting quietly in kitchen with sign behind them that reads “NO TALKING BEFORE MIDDAY.”
Cartoon by Victoria Roberts
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But Washingtonians were not the fair’s target audience; airing the statehood grievance could have risked inviting even more micromanaging from an Administration that has already tried to take over some of the District’s most beloved cultural institutions. A federal employee who didn’t want to be identified noted, of the fair’s booths, “You can see that you’re only allowed to say certain things, show certain things.”

但华盛顿本地人并非博览会的目标受众;公开表达对州权的愤懑,可能会招致本届政府更多的微观干预——它已经试图接管特区一些最受珍视的文化机构了。一位不愿透露姓名的联邦雇员谈到博览会的展位时说:“你能看出来,只允许你说某些话,展示某些东西。”

Mike Hopkins, a local wearing a cap with D.C.’s flag, lamented the political messaging he had seen in many booths: “That’s a turnoff for me.”

本地人迈克·霍普金斯(Mike Hopkins)戴着一顶印有特区区旗的帽子,对他在许多展位看到的政治宣传感到惋惜:“那让我很扫兴。”

The D.C. booth featured a District-themed trivia wheel, with questions specific to each of the capital’s eight wards. (“Lincoln!” a visitor yelped, attempting to answer the question of which Ward 2 neighborhood, likely named after King George II and not the first President, is the oldest in D.C.) The prizes contained subtle references to the District’s long fight; winners got pins emblazoned with the logo for the statehood campaign (a cutout of the District and a big “51”), or key chains marked “statehood.dc.gov.” A few of the questions hinted at the struggle, too. One father-and-son pair looked flummoxed when presented with the question “How many votes does D.C. have in Congress?”

特区展位设有一个特区主题的趣味问答转盘,问题针对首都八个区各自的特点。(“林肯!”一位参观者喊道,试图回答哪个第二区社区是特区最古老的——答案很可能得名于英王乔治二世,而非第一任总统。)奖品中暗含着对特区漫长抗争的微妙指涉;赢家会得到印有州权运动标志的徽章(一个特区轮廓的镂空图案和一个大大的“51”),或是刻着“statehood.dc.gov”的钥匙链。有几个问题也暗示了这场斗争。一对父子被问到“特区在国会有几票?”时,一脸茫然。

By the afternoon, the booth’s coloring wall was filled with names and comments, praise for and derision of the President scribbled side by side. A message reading “Trump 2028 2032 2036 2040” was crossed out and annotated with the word “Boooo.”

到了下午,展位的涂色墙上写满了名字和留言,对总统的赞美和嘲讽并排涂画在一起。一条写着“特朗普 2028 2032 2036 2040”的留言被划掉,旁边批了个词:“嘘——”。

“The grass is great,” the federal employee said. “But I feel sorry for the people who travelled.” She’d found most of the booths superficial, lacking in historical context. “This whole thing is very indicative of what we’re living in right now,” she said. “It’s a show that has nothing inside it.” ♦

“草坪很棒,”那位联邦雇员说,“但我替那些远道而来的人感到遗憾。”她觉得大多数展位都很肤浅,缺乏历史背景。“这整件事,非常能说明我们眼下所处的境况,”她说,“就是一场内里空空如也的秀。” ♦

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