Infinite Scroll

The Absurd Virtual Spectacle of Trump’s D.C.

特朗普华盛顿的荒诞虚拟奇观
I recently moved away from Washington, but there’s no way to escape propagandistic imagery of the President’s urban vanity projects.
我最近搬离了华盛顿,但总统那些虚荣的城市改造项目所炮制的宣传影像,依然无处可逃。
Illustration of the National Mall in DC covered in gold.
Illustration by Ariel Davis

For nearly eight years, while living in Washington, D.C., I often played out a thought experiment in my mind: Which Presidential candidate would Americans vote for if they knew, as I and my fellow-D.C.ers did, that the winning candidate would be moving into their proverbial back yard? More than ninety-three per cent of District constituents voted against Donald Trump in the 2024 election, only to find themselves living in a city remade in Trump’s image.

在华盛顿特区生活的近八年里,我常常在脑海中做一个思想实验:如果美国选民像我以及我的特区同胞一样,知道当选总统会搬进他们所谓的后院,他们还会把票投给谁?2024年大选中,超过百分之九十三的特区选民投票反对唐纳德·特朗普,结果却发现自己生活在一座按照特朗普形象重塑的城市里。

Last August, D.C. provided an early proving ground for the deployment of the National Guard in cities. I watched troops chase delivery drivers on Eighteenth Street, the stretch of dive bars and restaurants that entertain the city’s crowd of earnest twentysomethings, and then, eight months later, patrol aimlessly in groups of four outside of grocery stores and in public parks in the middle of quiet afternoons. Huge banners with Trump’s face on them went up on the headquarters of the Department of Justice, the Department of Labor, and the Department of Agriculture. In December, board members installed by Trump voted to rename the Kennedy Center the Trump-Kennedy Center and had its new name emblazoned on the façade. Fences rose not just in front of the White House but around parks; in March, the grass at Logan Circle was fenced off with chain-link and opaque mesh, preventing pedestrians from crossing the park, and plans were announced to close the top of Meridian Hill Park, a popular gathering spot, for most of the summer. Trump also demolished the East Wing of the White House, of course, to make way for a vast ballroom. In case the architectural iconoclasm wasn’t enough to offend, some of the rubble from the torn-down building was dumped on the grounds of the public East Potomac Golf Links. For many locals, these incursions into the sites of daily life represented a kind of siege against which they had little recourse.

去年八月,华盛顿特区成了在城市部署国民警卫队的早期试验场。我看着士兵们在第十八街追赶送货司机——那条街遍布廉价酒吧和餐厅,是城里二十多岁认真打拼的年轻人的消遣去处——八个月后,又看着他们在安静的午后,四人一组,漫无目的地在杂货店外和公园里巡逻。司法部、劳工部和农业部总部大楼上,挂起了印有特朗普面孔的巨幅横幅。十二月,特朗普安插的董事会成员投票决定将肯尼迪中心更名为特朗普-肯尼迪中心,并将新名字赫然挂上建筑外立面。围栏不仅竖立在白宫前,还围住了公园;三月,洛根圆环的草地被铁丝网和不透明网布围了起来,行人无法穿行公园,而广受欢迎的聚会地点子午线山公园顶部也宣布将在夏季大部分时间关闭。特朗普当然还拆除了白宫东翼,为一个巨大的宴会厅腾出空间。仿佛这种建筑上的破除还不够冒犯人似的,拆除建筑的部分碎石被倾倒在公共的东波托马克高尔夫球场。对许多本地人来说,这些对日常生活空间的侵入,代表着一场他们几乎无力反抗的围城。

This past April, my wife and I moved to New York, for my wife’s work. There are plenty of things I miss about D.C.: the precipitous woods of Rock Creek Park, the frankly absurd number of dogs out on walks, the relative ease of making a restaurant reservation. But I have continued to be bombarded with Trump’s version of the city, this time in images on the internet, as the Administration turns D.C.’s transformation into visual propaganda. The latest round of photos shows an Ultimate Fighting Championship arena erected in front of the White House, with a Stars-and-Stripes-bedecked lighting rig that resembles roller-coaster armature. The card is set for June 14th, in honor of the two-hundred-and-fiftieth anniversary of the United States—and Trump’s eightieth birthday. The juxtaposition of staid government structure and garish entertainment contraption was so ludicrous that some social-media commenters assumed that it was fake. The Pentagon, doubling down on the gimmick, is reportedly recruiting troops to attend the event—as long as they pay for their own travel and look soldierly enough for Pete Hegseth, by meeting height-and-weight requirements. With its combination of teen-boy exuberance and politicized violence, the White House x U.F.C. activation is just as brain-rotted as the Administration’s intercutting of drone strikes in Iran with video-game footage.

今年四月,因为妻子工作的缘故,我和她搬到了纽约。华盛顿有很多让我怀念的东西:岩溪公园陡峭的林地,散步时遇到的狗多得离谱,预订餐厅相对容易。但我仍然不断被特朗普版本的华盛顿所轰炸,这次是通过网络上的图像,因为政府正将特区的改造变成视觉宣传。最新一轮照片显示,白宫前竖起了一座终极格斗冠军赛的竞技场,配备的灯光桁架装饰着星条旗,看起来像过山车的骨架。比赛定于6月14日举行,以纪念美国建国二百五十周年——以及特朗普的八十岁生日。沉稳的政府建筑与花哨的娱乐装置并置,荒诞至极,以至于一些社交媒体评论者以为这是假的。五角大楼则变本加厉,据报道正在招募士兵参加活动——只要他们自付差旅费,并且看起来足够有军人气概,能满足皮特·赫格塞思的身高体重要求。白宫与UFC的这次联动,混合了少年意气和政治化的暴力,其脑残程度不亚于本届政府将伊朗无人机袭击画面与电子游戏镜头交叉剪辑的做法。

In his second term, especially, Trump has excelled at using government buildings as his own personal stage set. In 2025, during his short-lived Elon Musk era, there was a Tesla parked in front of the White House, advertising his new coziness with tech. As the second term has progressed, the theatrical symbols of his dominance have grown more ambitious, more personal. Trump had the lawn in the center of the Rose Garden paved over and embedded with lighting so that it now resembles the patio of a fancified Le Pain Quotidien. The bottom of the Lincoln Memorial Reflecting Pool is being painted in the American flag’s official Old Glory Blue, after a German friend of Trump’s complained that its long-standing shade of gray was “disgusting” looking; the President said that he aspires for it to be more like a “highly sophisticated swimming pool,” though early photos of the makeover suggested a streaky mess. The gilded filigree that began spreading over the walls of the Oval Office made its way to the outside of the building; now there’s a cursive sign in gold on the outer door leading to the colonnade, like an obnoxious monogram. Renderings of the ballroom that Trump hopes will replace the East Wing show a cavernous, golden, faux-historical expanse that dwarfs the genuine historical structures around it. The latest addition to the plans is a “DronePort” that Trump posted depictions of on Truth Social, featuring autonomous planes and soldiers stationed on the roof.

尤其在第二个任期,特朗普极擅长将政府大楼用作他个人的舞台布景。2025年,在他短暂的埃隆·马斯克时代,白宫前停着一辆特斯拉,昭示着他与科技界新结的亲密关系。随着第二任期推进,他彰显统治力的戏剧性象征物变得愈发野心勃勃,也愈发个人化。特朗普将玫瑰园中央的草坪铺上地砖,嵌入灯光,如今看起来就像一个高档化的“每日面包”餐厅的露台。林肯纪念堂倒影池的池底,正被漆成美国国旗的官方“旧日荣光蓝”,起因是特朗普的一位德国朋友抱怨池底经年累月的灰色看起来“令人作呕”;总统表示,他希望它更像一个“高度精致的游泳池”,尽管早期的改造照片显示出一片斑驳狼藉。从椭圆形办公室墙壁上开始蔓延的镀金纹饰,已经扩展到了建筑外部;现在,通往柱廊的外门上挂着一块金色草书标牌,活像一块俗不可耐的字母花押。特朗普希望取代东翼的宴会厅效果图,展示了一个洞穴般、金碧辉煌、仿古的广阔空间,令周围真正的历史建筑相形见绌。计划中最新添加的是一个“无人机港”,特朗普在“真实社交”上发布了示意图,展示了自主飞行的飞机和驻扎在屋顶的士兵。

It doesn’t much matter whether all of Trump’s designs become physical fact; the imagery is enough to achieve its intended effect of eliciting aggrieved attention. Trump is putting his stamp on the city of Washington, D.C., the way Nero put his stamp on Rome, turning it into a twenty-first-century Domus Aurea. The momentousness of the country’s two-hundred-and-fiftieth anniversary creates a pretext for, say, spending five million dollars to gild four bronze horse statues near the Lincoln Memorial with thick gold leaf, or for mocking up a two-hundred-and-fifty-dollar bill bearing Trump’s glowering mug shot. (There is, blessedly, a law against printing a living person on currency.) Then there is the United States Triumphal Arch, which is perhaps Trump’s version of Nero’s Colossus, a proposed two-hundred-and-fifty-foot-tall structure at one end of the Arlington Memorial Bridge. Its design is neoclassical in the extreme, with golden eagles and an angelic, Statue of Liberty-esque figure at its apex. But the more ornate the plans, the more they throw into relief Trump’s disregard for the parts of the District where people actually live.

特朗普的设计能否全部成为现实,其实并不重要;这些图像本身就足以达到其预期效果——引发愤怒的关注。特朗普正在将自己的印记烙在华盛顿特区,就像尼禄在罗马留下印记一样,将它变成一座二十一世纪的“金宫”。国家二百五十周年庆典的重大意义,为一些行为提供了借口,比如花费五百万美元,用厚金箔给林肯纪念堂附近的四座青铜马雕像镀金,或者制作一张印有特朗普怒目而视的面部照片的二百五十美元假钞。(谢天谢地,法律禁止在货币上印制在世人物肖像。)还有美国的凯旋门,这或许是特朗普版本的尼禄巨像,一座拟建在阿灵顿纪念大桥一端、高达二百五十英尺的建筑。其设计是极致的古典主义风格,饰有金鹰,顶端立着一尊天使般、类似自由女神像的人物。但这些计划越是华丽,就越是凸显出特朗普对特区居民实际生活区域的漠视。

There are some bright spots for D.C. residents. After a years-long effort, the cascading fountains in Meridian Hill Park are running once more. Fountains outside of Union Station are flowing, too (and the basins are more aquamarine than Old Glory Blue). And the proliferation of D.C. propaganda online belies the reality that Trump’s most egregious urban vanity projects are facing significant headwinds. Last week, a judge ruled that the Kennedy Center’s name change was illegal without congressional approval and set a deadline of fourteen days for the removal of its updated signage. Five musicians have dropped out of a vaunted Freedom 250 celebration in D.C. (though Vanilla Ice has said that he still plans to perform, noting, “I don’t even vote”). The reflecting-pool repainting, too, is facing a lawsuit alleging that it amounts to “aesthetic injury.” For that crime, at least, Trump is certainly on the hook. ♦

对华盛顿居民来说,也有一些亮点。经过多年的努力,子午线山公园的叠水喷泉重新流淌起来。联合车站外的喷泉也恢复了流动(而且池水更偏向海蓝宝石色,而非“旧日荣光蓝”)。此外,特朗普的城市改造宣传在网上泛滥,恰恰掩盖了一个现实:他最恶劣的那些虚荣项目正面临巨大阻力。上周,一名法官裁定,肯尼迪中心未经国会批准的更名行为违法,并设定了十四天的期限,要求移除更新后的标识。已有五位音乐人退出了在华盛顿特区大肆宣传的“自由250”庆典(不过“香草冰”表示他仍计划演出,并指出“我连票都不投”)。倒影池的重新粉刷也面临诉讼,指控其造成了“审美伤害”。至少就这项罪名而言,特朗普肯定难辞其咎。 ♦

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