Global Notes

I Won’t Cry for You, Argentina

阿根廷,我不为你哭泣
The team is headed back to the World Cup final, but one lifelong fan has fallen out of love.
这支球队即将重返世界杯决赛,但一位终身球迷却已不再热爱。
Figures walk on a soccer field.
Photograph by Marc Francotte / TempSport / Corbis / Getty

The first time I watched Argentina play live, I cried. It was the opening match of the 1990 World Cup, in Italy. I was six years old, sitting with my twin brother in our grandparents’ living room, thousands of miles away, in Kolkata, India. Our anticipation had been building for months. We were enamored of the Argentinean team and its talismanic star, Diego Maradona, whose exploits, which had led Argentina to victory in the previous World Cup, we watched repeatedly on VHS cassette. We would thunder around our family garden emulating the diminutive, mop-haired forward, our limbs flailing as we zipped past phantom opponents, tumbling into the grass like Maradona did when brought down, as he often was, by exasperated defenders. At bath time, we snapped our towels in the air, aping the footage we had seen of a victorious, bare-chested Maradona jumping in his team’s locker room and singing “¡Vamos, vamos, Argentina!” But, during the opening match, in Milan, against Cameroon, there was no triumph: the unlikely African side achieved one of the most famous upsets in World Cup history, grinding out a 1–0 victory against the lacklustre Argentineans. While relatives looked on in bemusement, my brother and I burst into tears, inconsolable. (We ended up crying again when Argentina lost to West Germany in that World Cup’s final.)

第一次看阿根廷队现场直播时,我哭了。那是1990年意大利世界杯的揭幕战。我六岁,和双胞胎兄弟坐在祖父母的客厅里,远在千里之外的印度加尔各答。我们期待了好几个月,迷上了阿根廷队和它的护身符球星迭戈·马拉多纳。他在上一届世界杯率队夺冠的壮举,我们在录像带上反复观看。我们会在自家花园里横冲直撞,模仿那个身材矮小、头发蓬乱的前锋,四肢乱甩,飞一般掠过想象中的对手,然后像马拉多纳那样摔进草丛——他经常被气急败坏的后卫放倒。洗澡时,我们在空中挥舞毛巾,模仿录像里看到的画面:赤膊的马拉多纳在更衣室里蹦跳着高唱“加油,加油,阿根廷!”但在米兰对阵喀麦隆的揭幕战中,没有胜利:这支不起眼的非洲球队制造了世界杯历史上最著名的冷门之一,以1比0磨垮了状态低迷的阿根廷队。亲戚们困惑地看着,我和兄弟却放声大哭,怎么也哄不住。(那年世界杯决赛阿根廷输给西德时,我们又哭了一场。)

For much of the decades since, I’ve carried that strange grief for, and devotion to, a country that’s not my own. So have many others: a vast portion of humanity, numbering in the billions, finds itself stateless at the World Cup. I spent my childhood and much of my adult life as a citizen of India, which has never qualified for the tournament. Argentina filled a void. Embodied by Maradona, successive Argentinean national teams played with flair and toughness and an element of chaos, often on the edge of nervous breakdown. The team’s dramas coincided with years of wider chaos in the country, as cycles of hyperinflation and bailouts bedevilled its economy. As I grew older, I felt a sort of kinship with Argentina’s people, and an admiration for their fanaticism; I also just loved the swagger of multiple generations of attackers, from Maradona to the superstar who surpassed him, Lionel Messi, and many lesser-known, but hardly less dashing, talents who played in their shadows. Argentina fans, meanwhile, are unique in all sports—other countries have fan bases that get loud, but a stadium full of Argentineans activates something primordial. Their songs crescendo in waves, surging like radio static, echoing like a drum. You could spend hours on YouTube listening to the chants of various Buenos Aires club teams, marvelling at the atmosphere, which pulls in legions of tourists.

此后几十年的大部分时间里,我一直怀揣着那份奇特的悲伤,以及对一个不属于我的国家的忠诚。很多人也是如此:全球数十亿人在世界杯上都是无国籍者。我的童年和成年后的大部分时光,都是印度公民,而印度从未晋级过世界杯正赛。阿根廷填补了空白。以马拉多纳为代表,一代代阿根廷国家队踢得既有灵气又强硬,带着一丝混乱,常常濒临精神崩溃的边缘。球队的戏剧性起伏,恰逢这个国家长年的动荡——恶性通胀和纾困救助的循环折磨着它的经济。长大后,我对阿根廷人民产生了一种亲近感,钦佩他们的狂热;我也就是喜欢几代攻击手那股神气劲儿,从马拉多纳到超越他的超级巨星利昂内尔·梅西,再到许多名气稍逊但风采毫不逊色、在他们阴影下踢球的天才。与此同时,阿根廷球迷在所有体育项目里都独树一帜——其他国家也有喧闹的球迷群体,但一座坐满阿根廷人的体育场会激发出某种原始的东西。他们的歌声层层高涨,如无线电静电般汹涌,如鼓声般回荡。你可以在YouTube上花几个小时听布宜诺斯艾利斯各家俱乐部的助威歌,惊叹于那种吸引着大批游客的氛围。

The albiceleste, as the Argentinean national team is known, are beloved all over South Asia, but especially among Bengalis, who are soccer crazy. Every four years, slums in Kolkata and in Dhaka, the capital of Bangladesh, get painted over in the respective colors of Argentina and Brazil, soccer powerhouses that have been embraced with astonishing fervor across the Global South. Maradona and Messi have paraded through Kolkata on multiple summer tours, mobbed by thousands at the airport and on the streets, hailed as gods coming down to earth. Huge statues of both players were erected there. (Last month, the seventy-foot fibreglass-and-iron replica of Messi was deemed unsafe and taken down.) When Maradona died, in 2020, after a lifetime of substance abuse and other poor choices, candlelight vigils and shrines sprung up across the city; the state government in Kerala, another soccer hotbed, in southwest India, declared a two-day period of official mourning. In 2011, my brother and I were among more than seventy thousand people who went to see Messi’s Argentina play a friendly against Venezuela inside Kolkata’s cavernous Salt Lake Stadium. The stands were a sea of blue and white, with no Venezuela shirts in sight. Everyone, it seemed, was there for Argentina, for Messi, for a crumb of the communion they otherwise never got to taste.

阿根廷国家队被称为“蓝白军团”,在整个南亚都备受喜爱,尤其是在为足球疯狂的孟加拉人中间。每隔四年,加尔各答和孟加拉国首都达卡的贫民窟就会被粉刷成阿根廷和巴西各自的颜色,这两个足球强国在整个“全球南方”都受到惊人的狂热追捧。马拉多纳和梅西曾多次在夏季巡游加尔各答,在机场和街头被成千上万的人簇拥,被奉为下凡的神明。那里竖起了两位球员的巨大雕像。(上个月,那座七十英尺高的玻璃纤维和铁制梅西复制品因被认为不安全而被拆除。)2020年,马拉多纳因长期滥用药物和其他糟糕的人生选择去世时,全城出现了烛光守夜和神龛;印度西南部另一个足球热土喀拉拉邦的政府宣布官方哀悼两天。2011年,我和兄弟是七万多名观众中的一员,去加尔各答巨大的盐湖体育场看梅西的阿根廷队与委内瑞拉队的友谊赛。看台是一片蓝白色的海洋,看不到一件委内瑞拉球衣。似乎所有人都是为阿根廷而来,为梅西而来,为那一星半点他们原本永远无法品尝到的共融时刻而来。

I assume many who were in that crowd were glued to televisions on Wednesday, when Argentina overcame a deficit to beat England in the World Cup semifinal, book its place in the tournament’s upcoming final against Spain, and set up the possibility of winning consecutive titles, the first country to do so since Brazil, in 1958 and 1962. Messi, in his sixth, and surely his last, World Cup, pulled the strings against an English side that erred tactically; he ended up assisting both the equalizing and winning goals. Argentina’s fans danced and sang in their seats long after the match ended, in Atlanta; in Buenos Aires, thousands converged in celebration by the capital’s iconic obelisk. The Fox telecast in the United States also broadcast images of a heaving pro-Argentina party in Dhaka, where the final whistle had blown at 3 A.M.

我想,那天看台上的许多人,周三都紧盯着电视。那天阿根廷队逆转战胜英格兰队,晋级世界杯半决赛,锁定了即将对阵西班牙队的决赛席位,并有可能成为自1958年和1962年的巴西队之后,首支连续夺冠的球队。梅西在他第六届、也肯定是最后一届世界杯上,面对战术失误的英格兰队掌控了比赛;他最终助攻了扳平球和制胜球。在亚特兰大,比赛结束后很久,阿根廷球迷仍在座位上跳舞歌唱;在布宜诺斯艾利斯,数千人聚集在首都标志性的方尖碑周围庆祝。美国的福克斯电视台还播出了达卡一场热闹非凡的亲阿根廷派对的画面,那里终场哨响时是凌晨三点。

I no longer count myself in their cohort. If there’s a villain of this World Cup, it’s been Argentina, a defending champion who bullied its way through most of the tournament, breaking hearts at each turn with last-minute winners. After nearly losing, in what would have been a Cinderella upset, to a completely unheralded Cabo Verde, Argentina benefitted from questionable refereeing decisions in subsequent victories over Egypt and Switzerland. Speculation abounded online about a conspiracy to return Messi to the final. Social media has teemed with unsavory videos of Argentinean misbehavior in the stadiums, including fans hurling racial epithets at a Black American influencer and showering Egyptians with beer. Two years ago, a couple of Argentinean players had to apologize after being filmed singing a song that denigrated the African origins of many on France’s team; some Argentinean fans still dust it off, as they do with other songs mocking the poverty of Brazil’s favelas. Last week, Eduardo Feinmann, a prominent and controversial Argentinean journalist, said on television that he found Mexicans “detestable” and scoffed at “the envy Mexicans have for Argentineans—not just in soccer, in everything.” The Mexican President, Claudia Sheinbaum, waded into the fray, describing his remarks as “outrageous.”

我不再把自己算作他们中的一员了。如果说这届世界杯有反派,那就是阿根廷队。这支卫冕冠军几乎一路恃强凌弱,每轮都用绝杀球击碎人心。在险些输给名不见经传的佛得角、差点上演灰姑娘式的冷门之后,阿根廷队在随后战胜埃及和瑞士的比赛中都受益于有争议的判罚。网上充斥着关于让梅西重返决赛的阴谋论猜测。社交媒体上满是阿根廷人在看台上行为不端的令人反感的视频,包括球迷对一位美国黑人网红高喊种族歧视绰号,以及向埃及人泼啤酒。两年前,几名阿根廷球员因被拍到唱一首贬低法国队中许多球员非洲血统的歌而不得不道歉;一些阿根廷球迷至今仍会唱起这首歌,就像他们唱其他嘲笑巴西贫民窟贫困的歌曲一样。上周,阿根廷知名且颇具争议的记者爱德华多·费恩曼在电视上说,他觉得墨西哥人“可憎”,并嘲笑“墨西哥人对阿根廷人的嫉妒——不只在足球上,在一切方面”。墨西哥总统克劳迪娅·辛鲍姆介入争论,称其言论“令人愤慨”。

Though Argentina’s fans were as boisterous and ubiquitous as ever, the team played little part in the scenes of happy nationalism that will be remembered long after this World Cup is over: the Viking-helmeted Norwegians who “rowed” in unison through the New York City subway and Times Square; the kilt-clad Scots who emptied Boston of its lager; the Japanese who charmed everyone by helping, en masse, to clean up the stadiums where they attended games; the startling bonhomie between visiting South Koreans and their hosting Mexicans; the striking figure of Vozinha, Cabo Verde’s itinerant, forty-year-old goalkeeper, who put his tiny nation on the map when he thwarted Spain in the group stage and staved off Argentina till extra time—heroic feats that saw him earn more than fifty times as many followers on Instagram as there are inhabitants of his country. Argentina’s supporters, meanwhile, lorded their success over others as their team kept winning with a crushing inevitability.

尽管阿根廷球迷一如既往地喧闹、无处不在,但在这届世界杯结束后很久仍将被铭记的快乐民族主义场景中,这支球队几乎没扮演什么角色:戴着维京头盔的挪威人在纽约地铁和时代广场齐声“划船”;穿着苏格兰裙的苏格兰人喝光了波士顿的拉格啤酒;日本人集体帮忙打扫他们观赛的体育场,赢得了所有人的好感;来访的韩国人与接待他们的墨西哥人之间惊人的友好情谊;佛得角那位四处漂泊的四十岁门将沃济尼亚的醒目身影,他在小组赛阻挡西班牙、并将阿根廷拖入加时赛,让这个小小岛国声名鹊起——这些英雄壮举让他的Instagram粉丝数超过了本国居民人数的五十多倍。与此同时,阿根廷的支持者们却在自己的球队以一种碾压式的必然性不断取胜时,对他人耀武扬威。

At this point, there’s little debate that Messi is the greatest player of all time. Still, he now leaves me cold. He is a titan of our disenchanted age, on display in every possible medium and format, but utterly boring off the field, insulated behind layers of corporate branding and an army of P.R. professionals. Maradona, on the other hand, was a charismatic populist, a scalawag from a shantytown, irrepressible and impudent. His most infamous goal—when he illegally knocked in the opener in the 1986 quarterfinal against England with what he himself dubbed “the hand of God”—would have been swiftly ruled out by the video-assisted-refereeing technology that has reshaped the experience of watching soccer these days. But that successful act of cheating is central to Maradona’s legend, as is his defiance in the aftermath. (To be sure, he did also score—legitimately—one of the greatest goals ever, in the same game.) He saw Argentina’s victory over England as justice for his country’s humiliating defeat by the British in the war over the Falkland Islands. “We blamed the English players for everything that happened, for all the suffering of the Argentine people,” Maradona wrote in his autobiography. “This was revenge.”

事到如今,梅西是历史最佳球员已没什么争议。然而,他现在让我无动于衷。他是我们这个祛魅时代的巨人,以各种可能的媒介和形式展示,但在场下却极其无趣,被层层企业品牌和一支公关大军隔绝开来。相比之下,马拉多纳则是一位富有魅力的民粹主义者,一个来自棚户区的无赖,不可抑制又放肆无礼。他最臭名昭著的进球——1986年四分之一决赛对阵英格兰时,他用自己所谓的“上帝之手”非法地将首球打进——在如今重塑了足球观赛体验的视频助理裁判技术下,会立刻被判无效。但那成功的作弊行为,以及他事后的挑衅态度,正是马拉多纳传奇的核心。(当然,在同一场比赛中,他也确实合法地打进了史上最伟大的进球之一。)他将阿根廷对英格兰的胜利视为国家在马岛战争中惨败给英国人的正义复仇。“我们把发生的一切、把阿根廷人民的所有苦难都归咎于英格兰球员,”马拉多纳在自传中写道,“这是复仇。”

That image of Maradona as an avenging angel, as a tribune of a wronged people, transcended borders. His fame grew in the southern-Italian city of Naples, where he turned up in the mid-eighties to play for the city’s local club, Napoli, which had not won anything in recent memory, and whose supporters chafed against the bigotry of northern Italians. “It had been more than half a century since this city, condemned to suffer the furies of Vesuvius and eternal defeat on the soccer field, had last won a championship, and thanks to Maradona the dark south finally managed to humiliate the white north that scorned it,” the late Uruguayan author Eduardo Galeano wrote. “In the stadiums of Italy and all Europe, Napoli kept on winning, cup after cup, and each goal constituted a desecration of the established order and a revenge against history.”

马拉多纳作为复仇天使、受屈辱人民的护民官的形象,超越了国界。他在意大利南部城市那不勒斯声名鹊起,八十年代中期他来到这里,为当地俱乐部那不勒斯效力。这支球队在人们的记忆中从未赢得过任何荣誉,其支持者一直对意大利北方人的偏见感到愤怒。“半个多世纪以来,这座注定要遭受维苏威火山怒火和足球场上永恒失败的城市,从未赢得过联赛冠军,而多亏了马拉多纳,黑暗的南方终于羞辱了鄙视它的白色北方,”已故乌拉圭作家爱德华多·加莱亚诺写道。“在意大利和全欧洲的体育场里,那不勒斯不断获胜,赢得一座又一座奖杯,每一个进球都构成对既定秩序的亵渎和对历史的复仇。”

Now Messi’s Argentina is the established order, the Goliath shoving the heads of all other challengers in the dirt. At the final, on Sunday, Argentina’s libertarian President Javier Milei, and his far-right fellow-traveller, U.S. President Donald Trump, will likely be seated together. Spanish Prime Minister Pedro Sánchez is not expected to attend—Spain’s king will represent the nation from the stands—which is probably for the best. Trump has repeatedly attacked Sánchez’s center-left government, and, last year, Milei stoked a diplomatic feud when he denounced the “socialist scum” in power and seemingly encouraged Spaniards to exact violence on their political leadership. Milei hasn’t shied away from commenting on soccer, declaring earlier this year that “the only left that works” is Messi’s left foot. The Argentinean star, for his part, is apolitical and circumspect—a significant departure from Maradona, who had a famous friendship with Fidel Castro.

如今,梅西的阿根廷队就是那个既定秩序,是把所有挑战者的头按进土里的歌利亚。周日的决赛上,阿根廷的自由意志主义总统哈维尔·米莱,以及他的极右翼同路人、美国总统唐纳德·特朗普,很可能会坐在一起。西班牙首相佩德罗·桑切斯预计不会出席——西班牙国王将代表国家在看台上观赛——这或许是件好事。特朗普曾多次攻击桑切斯的中左翼政府,而去年,米莱谴责掌权的“社会主义败类”,并似乎在怂恿西班牙人对他们的政治领导层施暴,从而挑起了一场外交争端。米莱并不避讳评论足球,今年早些时候他宣称“唯一管用的左派”是梅西的左脚。而这位阿根廷球星本人则不涉政治、谨言慎行——这与和菲德尔·卡斯特罗有着著名友谊的马拉多纳大相径庭。

Messi goes to New Jersey, where the final will be played, on the cusp of overwhelming glory. One of the main songs in the Argentinean repertoire this summer has been about claiming the “fourth star,” a nod to the possibility of winning a fourth World Cup. There’s a line about doing it for Maradona, for the Falklands, and for the last tournament appearance of Messi. Tens of millions inside and outside Argentina will be belting it out during the game. I won’t be one of them. ♦

梅西前往决赛举办地新泽西,已站在无上荣耀的门槛上。今年夏天阿根廷队传唱的一首主要歌曲,是关于夺取“第四颗星”,意指赢得第四座世界杯的可能性。歌词里有一句,是为了马拉多纳,为了马岛,也为了梅西的最后一届世界杯。比赛期间,阿根廷国内外数千万人将高唱这首歌。我不会是其中之一。♦

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