Critic’s Notebook

Ariana Grande and the Disappointment of Diagnosis

爱莉安娜·格兰德与诊断带来的失望
The pop star’s appearance has prompted fans to speculate that she’s suffering from an eating disorder. How should we talk about famous women’s bodies?
这位流行歌手的外形引发粉丝猜测她患有进食障碍。我们该如何谈论知名女性的身体?
Ariana Grande collage
Illustration by Joan Wong; Source photographs from Getty

Let’s say it in unison: this isn’t helping. By “this,” we mean commentary, though I prefer “criticism,” an enterprise that, in its contemporary incarnation, is given to analyzing public figures as one would a work of art. For anyone asking whether this kind of analysis—unequal parts interpretation, speculation, and evaluation—will save a worrying figure, the query imparts its own futility. Criticism parses well but advocates poorly; it is diagnostic but seldom curative. Critics, lay and professional alike, apprehend and describe what’s happening on the page, stage, screen, and beyond, and what artists and other unreachable beings make of that, if anything, is their divine prerogative. Such is the ecstasy, the agony, of judgment, which was never for their benefit.

让我们齐声说:这无济于事。所谓“这”,指的是评论,不过我更喜欢称之为“批评”——这种行当在当代的化身,就是像分析一件艺术品那样分析公众人物。如果有人问,这种分析——由解读、揣测和评判按不等比例混合而成——能否拯救一个令人担忧的身影,这个问题本身就昭示了它的徒劳。批评善于剖析,却不善呼吁;它长于诊断,却鲜能治愈。批评家,无论是业余的还是专业的,捕捉并描述书页上、舞台上、银幕内外正在发生的事,而艺术家及其他遥不可及的存在对此作何感想——如果有的话——那是他们神圣的特权。这便是评判的狂喜与煎熬,评判从来不是为了他们的利益。

Custom dictates that I name names, ferrying us from the generic to specifics, thus embarking upon the dubious practice of personifying a star. Ariana Grande, the pop star and actor, is also a person, of flesh and blood, but unknowable beyond that bare fact from the vantage of a stranger, no matter the ubiquity of her image. Yet modern celebrity hinges upon believable proximity. That paradox reaches its apex in pop music, which trades in the felt commonality of feminine experience and whose performers are their own—and owned—art product.

惯例要求我指名道姓,将我们从泛泛之谈引向具体,从而踏上将明星人格化这一可疑的实践。爱莉安娜·格兰德,这位流行歌手兼演员,也是一个有血有肉的人,但除了这个赤裸裸的事实之外,从一个陌生人的视角来看,无论她的形象多么无处不在,她都不可知晓。然而,现代名流仰赖的正是那种可信的亲近感。这一悖论在流行音乐中达到顶峰,流行音乐贩卖的是女性经验中被感知到的共性,而其表演者既是自己的艺术产品,也是被拥有的艺术产品。

And so, while audiences have been alert to the appearance of a thinner Grande since before her Oscar-nominated turn as Glinda in the 2024 film “Wicked,” it makes sense that such noticing intensified upon Grande’s unexpected return as a pop artist this summer. The eleven-stop, forty-one-show Eternal Sunshine Tour, supporting the studio album of that name, her seventh, coincides with the rollout of her eighth album, “Petal,” which was released last Friday when Grande performed in Montreal. Full of shadow and synth, both “Eternal Sunshine” and “Petal” are existential, moody affairs, preoccupied, as Grande is elsewhere in her œuvre, with the pained process of regeneration. Commentary, however, has dwelled on a darkness of another sort, that of a thin artist gotten thinner.

因此,尽管早在格兰德凭借2024年电影《魔法坏女巫》中格琳达一角获得奥斯卡提名之前,观众就已经注意到她更瘦了,但当格兰德今年夏天出人意料地以流行歌手身份回归时,这种关注随之加剧,也就不足为奇了。为期十一站、共四十一场的“永恒阳光巡演”,是为她第七张同名录音室专辑造势,而巡演期间恰逢她第八张专辑《花瓣》的推出,该专辑于上周五格兰德在蒙特利尔演出时发行。《永恒阳光》和《花瓣》都充满了暗影与合成器音效,是关乎存在的、情绪化的作品,与格兰德其他作品一样,专注于重获新生的痛苦过程。然而,评论却一直纠缠于另一种黑暗:一位本就纤瘦的艺人变得更瘦了。

Her figure seems a sign too indicative to ignore. People have speculated that Grande has an eating disorder, picking out tell-tale evidence in fan-made tour clips and album visuals, such as the music video for the title track of “Petal,” also released last week. The video, shot on VistaVision and billed as a short film, bridges the artist’s disciplines. The genre is horror. Grande plays a wannabe ingénue from the nineteen-forties who murders a panel of casting-couch types after trying and failing to perform a version of herself they might want; as it turns out, this is also cinema, scenes from a movie set. Grande has been play-acting play acting: the blood is fake; the ingénue is a star. Like its video, the song is a misdirect, its melancholic tone undercut by the swagger of its vocalist.

她的身形似乎成了一个无法忽视的显眼信号。人们猜测格兰德患有进食障碍,从粉丝制作的巡演片段和专辑视觉素材中找出蛛丝马迹,比如上周同期发布的《花瓣》主打歌的音乐视频。这支视频用VistaVision格式拍摄,被标榜为一部短片,连接了这位艺人的不同领域。类型是恐怖片。格兰德饰演一个上世纪四十年代想当女主角的新人,她试图扮演一个评委们可能想要的自己,却失败了,之后便杀害了一群潜规则成性的评委;结果发现,这也是电影,是片场的场景。格兰德一直在扮演“扮演”:血是假的;那个新人其实是个明星。就像它的视频一样,这首歌也是一种误导,其忧郁的基调被歌手声音中的自信张扬所削弱。

Tell me, who’s to blame?
Is it the people or myself?

告诉我,该怪谁?是别人还是我自己?

. . .

This is not a cry for help

这不是求救的呼喊

. . .

But I am not a victim, bitch
I’m practically drowning in my blessings

但我不是受害者,贱人,我简直快被我的福气淹没了

If those proclamations are autobiographical, a vanishing few believe it. The “Petal” video has been received as a smoking gun, shot to accentuate her extreme thinness. Its screenshots have circulated with ferocity this past week as proof that Grande is in danger, and imperiling others with her. Some have expressed feeling triggered, in a clinical sense, by these images, as well as dismayed that the outcry has made them omnipresent.

如果这些宣言是自传性质的,几乎没人相信。《花瓣》的视频被视为确凿证据,拍摄角度刻意突出了她极度的消瘦。过去一周,它的截图疯狂流传,作为格兰德身处险境、并以此危及他人的证据。有些人表示,从临床意义上说,这些图像让他们感到被触发,同时也对由此引发的强烈抗议使这些图像无处不在感到沮丧。

Earlier this week, as if in response to the disquiet, a representative for Grande told People magazine that she would be “taking a step back from visibility” after the tour, one aspect of the “public-facing work and appearances” that have “led to endless, ongoing public scrutiny.” At her next stop, in Chicago, Grande corrected the presumption about timing, telling the crowd that plans for her withdrawal had been “quietly made, a long time ago.” The “negativity” wasn’t “ruining things,” she explained with calm, as though chiding her own management team, whose statement was almost pissy in comparison, with its emphasis on how “healthily” Grande has been performing. On Wednesday night, I went to see for myself and watched Grande execute a spectacular show without incident. She belted and sashayed with a pro’s apparent ease. It was, as promised, a “physical” and “beautiful” performance. None of which is dispositive, but, then again, what could be?

本周早些时候,仿佛是对这些不安的回应,格兰德的一位代表告诉《人物》杂志,她将在巡演结束后“从公众视野中退后一步”,这是“面向公众的工作和露面”的一部分,而这些工作和露面“导致了无休止的、持续的公众审视”。在接下来芝加哥的演出中,格兰德纠正了关于时间的推测,告诉观众她退隐的计划“是很久以前就悄悄定下的”。她平静地解释道,“负面情绪”并没有“毁掉一切”,语气仿佛在责备自己的管理团队,相比之下,他们那份强调格兰德表演得多么“健康”的声明,几乎显得有些恼火。周三晚上,我亲自去看了看,目睹格兰德毫无差池地完成了一场精彩的演出。她放声高歌,轻快摇曳,带着专业人士那种显而易见的轻松。正如承诺的那样,这是一场“充满体力”且“美妙”的表演。这一切都不能作为定论,但话又说回来,什么能呢?

Well-meaning observers want to split the difference between the sayable and unsayable. Would that they could remark upon what appears troubling about Grande without presuming too much about another body. And many—in comments sections and gossip forums and group chats and Substack blogs, conversations with their waxer and at happy hour—are trying. But articulating what’s happening has been an issue. What people are seeing cannot be described without flouting good sense regarding the disease alleged. Eating disorders, as those in recovery have stressed, thrive on the pathological evidence of their symptoms, spinning negative attention—concern, disgust—into fatal affirmations.

好心的观察者们想在可言说与不可言说之间找到一个折中点。但愿他们既能评论格兰德身上看似令人不安之处,又不对另一个身体妄加揣测。许多人——在评论区、八卦论坛、群聊和Substack博客里,在与脱毛师聊天时,在欢乐时光的酒桌上——都在尝试。但如何表述正在发生的事,一直是个难题。人们所看到的,无法在不违背关于所指控疾病的良好常识的情况下描述出来。正如正在康复中的患者所强调的,进食障碍靠其症状的病态证据而滋长,将负面的关注——担忧、厌恶——转化为致命的肯定。

But even those in recovery make for imperfect spokespeople. “Concern” is an emotional bricolage, and often clumsily expressed. Witnesses fear the worst, and there is no elegant way of saying it—the worst is death. There is dread and sadness and also anger, not only on behalf of the usual alibi for caring about famous women’s bodies, those masses of impressionable teen-age girls, but on behalf of past and present selves. Not this again, survivors of heroin chic and low-rise denim beg. Though we have, I hope, stopped kidding ourselves with the notion that thinness ever left the cultural mandate—a mandate, lest we forget, that is pernicious past the feelings it hurts, because it is parcelled within a regime of patriarchal control wreaking hell on women’s survival. Earlier this week, the acting Attorney General, Todd Blanche, declared that the Justice Department has been working with federal agencies on potential nationwide restrictions on abortion medication. Frustration, suffuse, blunts the language.

但即便是正在康复中的患者,也并非完美的代言人。“担忧”是一种情感拼凑物,表达起来常常笨拙。目击者害怕最坏的情况,而没有什么优雅的方式能说出口——最坏的情况就是死亡。其中有恐惧和悲伤,也有愤怒,不仅是为了那个关心知名女性身体的惯用借口——那些易受影响的少女群体,也是为了过去和现在的自己。别再来了,经历过海洛因时尚和低腰牛仔裤的幸存者们恳求道。尽管我希望我们已经不再自欺欺人地认为“以瘦为美”曾离开过文化指令——别忘了,这种指令的危害远不止伤害感情,因为它被包裹在一套父权控制的体制内,对女性的生存造成严重破坏。本周早些时候,代理司法部长托德·布兰奇宣布,司法部一直在与联邦机构合作,研究可能在全国范围内限制堕胎药物的措施。沮丧之情,弥漫开来,让语言变得迟钝。

Ugly as some of the public comment on Grande has been, I find the indelicacy something of a relief from the usual reproach against commenting on the figures of public figures, what has sufficed for a moral consensus dating back to the rhetorical heyday of body positivity, not that anyone earnestly followed suit. The facile pledge to leave bodies out of it was born out of guilt, an attempt at atonement for celebrities turned tabloid fodder in the blogging era and for Chadwick Boseman, whose gradually slighter form resulted from battling cancer kept from a public who felt ashamed for noticing it after he passed. Grande returned a version of the refrain when people began noticing her changing form in 2023, cautioning that “we should be gentler and less comfortable commenting on people’s bodies.”

尽管关于格兰德的一些公开评论很难听,但我发现这种不委婉,多少让人从那种通常的指责中松了口气——那种指责反对评论公众人物的身形,这足以构成一种道德共识,可以追溯到身体自爱运动在修辞上的全盛时期,尽管并没有人真心照做。那种“别管人家身体”的轻率承诺,源于内疚,试图为博客时代沦为小报素材的名人们赎罪,也为查德维克·博斯曼赎罪——他日渐消瘦的身形是因为与癌症抗争,却对公众隐瞒,在他去世后,曾注意到这一点的公众为此感到羞愧。2023年,当人们开始注意到格兰德变化的身形时,她回应了类似的说法,告诫说“我们在评论别人的身体时,应该更温和,更不要那么随意”。

This message might also mean well. There’s no underestimating the volume and intensity of rubbernecking on the internet, and talk about women in public remains unspeakably cruel, causing us to look askance at critique couched as compassion. But I have also noticed an odd hostility toward attempts at parsing the images of figures paraded as paragons, as though there were something untoward in making sense of how they appear, be it in an ad for denim or in a baby-doll dress. Bad discourse, preoccupied with punitive diagnoses of every kind, has rendered some a bit gun shy, I think; the attention paid to a pointed finger has eroded trust in critics of mass culture. But a sound critic interprets celebrities as exemplary, not singular. Her observation isn’t personal because it can’t be. That access is denied. Whatever symptoms can be seen are societal and so, too, are the diagnoses.

这个信息可能也是出于好意。互联网上围观的数量和强度不容低估,而关于公共领域女性的言论仍然难以言喻地残忍,这让我们对披着同情外衣的批评侧目而视。但我也注意到,对于那些试图剖析被奉为典范的形象的尝试,存在一种奇怪的敌意,仿佛去理解她们如何呈现自己——无论是在牛仔广告里,还是穿着娃娃裙——是件不妥的事。糟糕的讨论,沉迷于对各种情况的惩罚性诊断,我想,这让一些人变得有点草木皆兵;对指指点点行为的关注,侵蚀了人们对大众文化批评者的信任。但一个好的批评家将名人解读为典型,而非特例。她的观察不是针对个人的,因为它不可能是。那种接触途径被拒绝了。任何可见的症状都是社会性的,因此,诊断也是如此。

Would I know the difference between a dying woman and a healthy one if she appeared before my eyes in a puff of smoke? How about in six-inch platforms? What if she sang in a voice large enough to flood an arena? What if she never flagged once? What if she sang about obliteration and mimicked collapse? What if she laughed? When looking for symptoms, anything can become suspect; and when comfort is sought, anything can look alright. What I saw of Grande that night was no less than the transcendence that pop acolytes come to see, which felt tenuous for reasons beyond any one body. How fragile this all is, I thought, such white-knuckled investments, emotional and financial, that brought us here. How fragile. ♦

如果一个女人在一阵烟雾中出现在我眼前,我能分辨出她是一个垂死的女人还是一个健康的女人吗?如果她穿着六英寸高的厚底鞋呢?如果她用足以响彻整个体育馆的巨大嗓音歌唱呢?如果她一刻也未曾露出疲态呢?如果她歌唱着毁灭,并模仿崩溃呢?如果她笑了呢?当寻找症状时,一切都可能变得可疑;而当寻求安慰时,一切又都可能看起来安然无恙。那晚我所看到的格兰德,不亚于流行乐迷们前来朝圣的那种超凡体验,而这种体验因其脆弱而显得岌岌可危,原因远不止于某一个身体。这一切是多么脆弱啊,我想,这些让我们聚集于此的、令人心惊肉跳的情感投入和金钱投入。多么脆弱。♦

2 free previews left — register to get 30 translations a month