The Political Scene

Alaska’s Senate Race Could Be Decided by Salmon

阿拉斯加的参议员竞选,可能由鲑鱼决定。
Mary Peltola, whose campaign could determine whether the Democrats retake Congress, mostly just wants to talk about fish.
玛丽·佩尔托拉的竞选可能决定民主党能否重掌国会,但她最想谈的,是鱼。
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Photograph by Clara Mokri / NYT / Redux

Perhaps the most important thing to know about Alaska’s Senate race, a close contest between the Republican incumbent, Dan Sullivan, and the former congresswoman Mary Peltola, is that salmon are pretty amazing fish. There’s the swimming upstream, the spawning, and the dying. Bears love salmon. Orcas love salmon. People love salmon. Without salmon, the first Alaskans, crossing the Bering land bridge some fifteen thousand years ago, could not have survived. On a recent trip to Alaska, I was, at various points, fed salmon for dinner, offered salmon as a gift, and given salmon for barter. Directly or indirectly, salmon feeds almost everything in the state, including its politics. Alaska’s bid for statehood, in the late nineteen-fifties, was in part a matter of keeping the hands of Seattle businessmen off local salmon stocks. Business deals are hammered out at fishing retreats. In 2010, a seaplane carrying Ted Stevens, likely the most powerful politician ever to come out of Alaska, crashed en route to a salmon lodge near Bristol Bay. He died wearing his waders.

关于阿拉斯加这场参议员竞选——共和党现任参议员丹·沙利文与前国会众议员玛丽·佩尔托拉之间的胶着对决——最重要的一点或许是:鲑鱼是一种相当了不起的鱼。它们逆流而上,产卵,然后死去。熊爱鲑鱼,虎鲸爱鲑鱼,人也爱鲑鱼。没有鲑鱼,大约一万五千年前跨越白令陆桥的第一批阿拉斯加人就不可能存活下来。最近我去阿拉斯加旅行,在不同场合吃到鲑鱼晚餐,收到鲑鱼当礼物,还拿到鲑鱼用来以物易物。直接或间接地,鲑鱼养活了这片土地上几乎一切,包括它的政治。阿拉斯加在二十世纪五十年代末争取建州,部分原因就是不让西雅图商人的手伸向本地的鲑鱼资源。生意在钓鱼度假地敲定。2010年,一架水上飞机在飞往布里斯托湾附近一处鲑鱼木屋途中坠毁,机上载着泰德·史蒂文斯——可能是阿拉斯加有史以来最有影响力的政治人物。他死时穿着涉水裤。

People in the Lower Forty-eight care a lot about Alaska’s Senate race. This cycle, it has been twice as expensive, per capita, as Michigan’s, and eight times Texas’s. The attention is unusual. In federal elections, Alaska reliably votes Republican; every time Donald Trump has been on the ballot, Alaska has voted for him by ten points or more. But, amid historically low approval ratings for the President, the Democrats are hoping to flip the seat, an essential part of any attempt to wrest back control of both houses of Congress. Trump, meanwhile, is clearly nervous about holding the seat. He recently headlined a rally for Sullivan in Wasilla, a small city north of Anchorage. “This is worth the eight hours on a plane,” Trump said. “And don’t forget, I got eight hours going back, too.”

美国本土四十八州的人非常关心阿拉斯加这场参议员竞选。本轮周期中,它的人均花费是密歇根州的两倍,得克萨斯州的八倍。这种关注并不寻常。在联邦选举中,阿拉斯加一向可靠地投给共和党;每次唐纳德·特朗普出现在选票上,阿拉斯加都以至少十个百分点优势投给他。但眼下,总统支持率处于历史低位,民主党人希望翻转这个席位,这是他们夺回参众两院控制权努力中的关键一环。与此同时,特朗普显然对保住这个席位感到紧张。他最近在瓦西拉——安克雷奇以北的一座小城——为沙利文站台造势。“坐八小时飞机来是值得的,”特朗普说,“别忘了,回去还得再坐八小时。”

In January, Chuck Schumer recruited Peltola to run, calling her the “last piece to the puzzle” of his midterms plan. Peltola, the state’s former at-large House member, launched her campaign with the slogan “Fish, Family, Freedom.” To most outsiders, this read as folksy branding for a race that would inevitably be dominated by Donald Trump. But Peltola really wants to talk about fish. Recently, I saw her speak at the elementary school in Utqiagvik, an Arctic town at the state’s northern tip. It was a very unusual stump speech. She apologized for the “super negative, toxic ads” flooding the state, including her own. She mentioned her opponent just once: a flattering anecdote about his advocacy for an oil project she supports. She didn’t mention Trump at all. And even though, compared with the rest of the state, salmon is not so big in Utqiagvik, Peltola still mostly talked about fish.

一月,查克·舒默招募佩尔托拉参选,称她是其中期选举计划的“最后一块拼图”。佩尔托拉曾任该州全州范围的众议员,她以“鱼、家庭、自由”为口号启动竞选。对大多数外人来说,这读起来像是一种乡土气的品牌包装,而这场竞选终究会被唐纳德·特朗普主导。但佩尔托拉是真的想谈鱼。最近,我在乌特恰格维克——该州最北端的一座北极小镇——的小学里听她演讲。那是一场非常不寻常的竞选演说。她为铺天盖地涌入该州的“超级负面、有毒的广告”道歉,包括她自己的广告。她只提到对手一次:一段称赞对方支持某个她也支持的石油项目的轶事。她完全没提特朗普。而且,尽管与全州其他地方相比,鲑鱼在乌特恰格维克没那么重要,佩尔托拉仍然主要在谈鱼。

This piscine primacy is relatively new in Alaska’s politics. In past election cycles, fish have always been one issue among many. But Alaska’s fish are in crisis. In recent years, runs of Chinook, or king salmon, the biggest and most revered species on the Yukon River, have been down as much as eighty per cent from average levels, according to the National Oceanic and Atmospheric Administration. Chum salmon, a more ordinary variety, have had an O.K. year, but they’ve been down as much as ninety per cent. Some species and some areas are worse off than others, but the general trend is bad, including for the state’s other two iconic seafood catches, halibut and crab. As I travelled around the state, I was surprised to find that virtually everyone I talked to was upset about the fish situation. One political consultant explained, “A lot of people come into the state, and they’re, like, ‘Why the hell is Mary Peltola “fish, family, freedom”?’ I’m a white guy who lives in Anchorage, and my freezer is currently full of rockfish, halibut, and salmon that I’ve caught because that’s just what we all do.”

这种“鱼类优先”在阿拉斯加政治中相对较新。在过去的选举周期里,鱼始终是众多议题之一。但阿拉斯加的鱼正处于危机之中。根据美国国家海洋和大气管理局的数据,近年来,育空河上最大、最受尊崇的奇努克鲑(又称王鲑)的洄游数量比平均水平下降了多达百分之八十。狗鲑,一种更普通的品种,今年情况尚可,但此前下降幅度高达百分之九十。有些鱼种、有些地区情况更糟,但总体趋势很糟糕,包括该州另外两种标志性海产——大比目鱼和螃蟹。我在全州各地旅行时,惊讶地发现几乎每个和我交谈的人都对鱼类状况感到不安。一位政治顾问解释说:“很多人来到这个州,他们会说,‘玛丽·佩尔托拉搞什么“鱼、家庭、自由”?’我是个住在安克雷奇的白人,我的冰柜里现在塞满了我自己钓的石斑鱼、大比目鱼和鲑鱼,因为我们这儿的人都这样。”

The crisis is worst up rivers such as the Yukon and the Kuskokwim. For many thousands of years, entire Athabascan and Yup’ik villages have subsisted on salmon. Indigenous residents have been delivering emotional testimony at meetings of the North Pacific Fishery Management Council (N.P.F.M.C.), which was created by Congress to oversee the region’s federal fisheries. “I got nine grandkids. My two youngest ones haven’t even tasted fish,” Robert Albert, a local from Tanana, said at a meeting in February. Life and social structures in remote river villages are rooted in summer fish camps, where the community catches, processes, and preserves the salmon that feeds them through the winter. But stocks have got so low that, in 2024, the Alaska government, in conjunction with Canada, shut down fishing for king salmon on the Yukon River and its Canadian tributaries for seven years—one complete king-salmon life cycle. The fish camps stand empty. “I wish I could express to you what it feels like for a man who provided for multiple families to become a beggar,” Carrie Stevens, who testified to the N.P.F.M.C. as a representative of the Council of Athabascan Tribal Governments, told me. Janessa Newman, from Rampart, told the council, “My immediate concern is whether I can morally bring my own children into this world without fishing on the Yukon River.”

危机在育空河和卡斯科奎姆河等河流上游最为严重。数千年来,整个阿萨巴斯卡人和尤皮克人的村庄都以鲑鱼为生。原住民居民在北太平洋渔业管理委员会(N.P.F.M.C.)的会议上发表了情绪激动的证词。该委员会由国会设立,负责管理该地区的联邦渔业。“我有九个孙辈。我两个最小的孩子还没尝过鱼的味道,”塔纳纳的当地人罗伯特·艾伯特在二月的一次会议上说。偏远河流村庄的生活和社会结构植根于夏季渔猎营地,社区在那里捕捞、加工和储存鲑鱼,供整个冬天食用。但鱼群数量已低到如此程度,以至于2024年,阿拉斯加政府与加拿大联合宣布,育空河及其加拿大支流的王鲑捕捞关闭七年——整整一个王鲑生命周期。渔猎营地空无一人。“我希望能让你们明白,一个曾经养活好几个家庭的男人变成乞丐是什么感觉,”卡丽·史蒂文斯对我说。她作为阿萨巴斯卡部落政府委员会的代表向N.P.F.M.C.作证。来自兰帕特的珍妮莎·纽曼对委员会说:“我最迫切的担忧是,如果不能在育空河上捕鱼,我在道德上是否还能把自己的孩子带到这个世界上。”

Research scientists with the N.P.F.M.C. and N.O.A.A. attribute the die-off, primarily, to climate change. But activists in Alaska have mostly focussed their ire on a type of fishing known as trawling. In the Bering Sea and the Gulf of Alaska, the main target of commercial fishing boats is pollock, a medium-sized, mild fish that swims in fantastically vast schools. Trawlers catch pollock by dragging enormous nets; some open wide enough to swallow a thousand M.T.A. buses. Any net you put in the water will incidentally catch other, non-targeted fish. This is known as bycatch. Every year, the Alaskan pollock industry brings up around twenty thousand king salmon and around a quarter million pounds of halibut as bycatch. Recently, anger at this collateral damage, heightened by the fish shortage, has evolved into a political movement.

N.P.F.M.C.和N.O.A.A.的研究科学家将鱼类大量死亡主要归因于气候变化。但阿拉斯加的活动人士大多把怒火集中到一种被称为拖网捕捞的作业方式上。在白令海和阿拉斯加湾,商业渔船的主要目标是狭鳕——一种中等体型、味道温和、以极其庞大的鱼群游动的鱼。拖网船用巨大的网捕捞狭鳕;有些网张开后足以吞下一千辆M.T.A.公交车。任何放入水中的网都会顺带捕到其他非目标鱼类。这就是所谓的兼捕。每年,阿拉斯加狭鳕产业会兼捕大约两万条王鲑和大约二十五万磅大比目鱼。最近,在鱼类短缺的加剧下,对这种附带损害的愤怒已经演变成一场政治运动。

On Facebook, the group Stop Alaskan Trawler Bycatch, launched in early 2020, has close to sixty thousand members, almost a tenth the population of Alaska itself. It calls for a ban on trawling. “You know how ‘Tiger King’ came out during lockdown and got big? The Facebook group was the same thing,” David Bayes, who moderates it, told me. Peltola, who is Yup’ik and grew up along the Kuskokwim, joined the group in its early days. At the time, she was the head of the Kuskokwim River Inter-Tribal Fish Commission, a nonprofit that co-manages fishing resources with the government. Two years later, in a special election in 2022, she emerged out of a crowded top-four primary to defeat Sarah Palin, becoming the first Democrat since 1970 to win Alaska’s sole House seat. That campaign’s defining issue was trawl bycatch. This year, she is campaigning on a call to ban out-of-state factory trawlers. This anti-trawl sentiment has caught on, politically, around the state. It has become a marquee issue in races for governor, the state legislature, and even in municipal elections. “There was one guy running for school board talking about trawl,” Bayes told me.

在Facebook上,2020年初创建的“停止阿拉斯加拖网兼捕”群组有近六万成员,几乎是阿拉斯加人口的十分之一。它呼吁禁止拖网捕捞。“你知道‘虎王’在封锁期间上线然后爆火吗?这个Facebook群组是同样的情况,”群组管理员戴维·贝斯告诉我。佩尔托拉是尤皮克人,在卡斯科奎姆河沿岸长大,她在群组创建初期就加入了。当时,她是卡斯科奎姆河部落间鱼类委员会的主席,这是一个与政府共同管理渔业资源的非营利组织。两年后,在2022年的一场特别选举中,她从拥挤的前四名初选中脱颖而出,击败了莎拉·佩林,成为自1970年以来第一位赢得阿拉斯加唯一众议院席位的民主党人。那场竞选的决定性议题就是拖网兼捕。今年,她的竞选主张是禁止州外工厂化拖网船。这种反拖网情绪在政治上已经蔓延到全州。它成为州长竞选、州议会选举、甚至市政选举中的头号议题。“有一个人竞选校董会成员,也在谈拖网,”贝斯告诉我。

I’d assumed that pollock people—businesspeople—would lean Republican, and the salmon people—the conservation-oriented—would lean Democratic, but that’s not really the case. “There’s nothing partisan about it,” Peltola told me recently. “When you ask folks who are MAGA why they’re splitting the ticket and voting for me, it’s largely because of trawling.” (The campaign later pointed out that a lot of those voters are also animated by high fuel prices.) Politics in Alaska are idiosyncratic. They rarely map onto a national partisan model. Republicans outnumber Democrats two to one, but independent voters outnumber both. “Partisan politics doesn’t work that well for a candidate,” Tony Knowles, the last Democrat to serve as governor, told me. A government staffer in a remote region put it to me, “Locally, no one gives a shit about the parties.”

我原本以为狭鳕行业的人——商界人士——会倾向共和党,而鲑鱼群体——注重保护的人——会倾向民主党,但事实并非如此。“这件事没有党派之分,”佩尔托拉最近对我说。“当你问那些MAGA的人为什么分裂投票、把票投给我,很大程度上是因为拖网捕捞。”(竞选团队后来指出,很多这样的选民也受到高油价的影响。)阿拉斯加的政治很特殊,很少能套用全国性的党派模式。共和党人数是民主党的两倍,但独立选民比两者都多。“党派政治对候选人来说效果并不好,”该州最后一位民主党州长托尼·诺尔斯对我说。偏远地区的一位政府工作人员对我说:“在地方上,没人在乎什么党派。”

One oddity of Alaska politics is that, though only twelve per cent of voters identify as Democrats, both the State Senate and the State House of Representatives are currently controlled by coalitions made up mostly of Democrats and independents, with some Republicans. Coalition governments are not uncommon in the state, where politicians are fond of saying that pragmatism trumps partisanship. Sometimes it’s more about vibes. “Somebody is a magnificent pain in the ass, and we don’t want them in our caucus so we build a caucus to exclude them,” Joelle Hall, a longtime union leader, told me. Imagine a congressional coalition formed by kicking out the lawmakers, on either side, who are annoying—the Ted Cruzes and the John Fettermans. Peltola tried to explain this unique approach by telling me that the current coalition “took the hardest people to work with and just put them to the side, and then everybody else joined as a majority to move forward and solve problems. And that is a model I am hoping we can export to every state in the nation.”

阿拉斯加政治的一个奇特之处在于,尽管只有百分之十二的选民自认是民主党人,州参议院和州众议院目前都由主要由民主党人和独立人士加上一些共和党人组成的联盟控制。联合政府在这个州并不罕见,这里的政客喜欢说务实胜过党派。有时这更多关乎气场。“某个人是个超级难缠的刺头,我们不想让他在我们的党团里,所以我们就组建一个党团把他排除出去,”长期担任工会领袖的乔埃尔·霍尔对我说。想象一下,一个国会联盟是通过把两党中那些惹人烦的议员——泰德·克鲁兹们和约翰·费特曼们——踢出去而组成的。佩尔托拉试图向我解释这种独特的做法,她说,当前的联盟“把最难共事的人放到一边,然后其他所有人联合起来形成多数,向前推进、解决问题。我希望这个模式能推广到全国每一个州。”

Peltola knows that relationships can be just as important as parties. She has been friendly with Palin since they ran against each other in 2022. At one debate during that race, they wore matching earrings; Peltola had given them to Palin as a gift. (“It’s an Alaska-chick thing,” Palin said.) Peltola is even closer with Lisa Murkowski, Alaska’s other incumbent senator, a Republican who, despite supporting Sullivan in this race, had endorsed Peltola during her previous campaigns. After Peltola won her first election, Murkowski offered to let her stay at her place in Washington. “That’s the thing about Alaska: there’s only seven hundred thirty-five thousand of us,” Peltola told me. “We’re all stuck with each other until we die.”

佩尔托拉知道,关系有时和党派一样重要。自2022年与佩林对决以来,她一直与佩林保持友好。那场竞选中的一次辩论上,她们戴着配对的耳环;是佩尔托拉送给佩林的礼物。(“这是阿拉斯加姐妹之间的事,”佩林说。)佩尔托拉与丽莎·穆尔科斯基的关系更近。穆尔科斯基是阿拉斯加另一位现任参议员,共和党人,尽管她在本次竞选中支持沙利文,但在此前佩尔托拉的竞选中曾为她背书。佩尔托拉赢得第一次选举后,穆尔科斯基主动提出让她住在自己在华盛顿的住处。“阿拉斯加就是这样:我们只有七十三万五千人,”佩尔托拉对我说,“我们这辈子都得跟彼此打交道。”

“Alaskans consider themselves more Alaskan than Republican, and more Alaskan, quite honestly, than they are American,” Scott Kendall, an attorney and longtime G.O.P. political consultant in the state, told me. “We like each other. To me, it’s kind of a beautiful thing. And I’ve been back to D.C. and elsewhere enough to know how good we’ve got it.” I told him that many of my political assumptions from the Lower Forty-eight didn’t quite translate to the state. “Most of my Democratic friends have guns,” Kendall said. “A lot of my conservative Republican friends grow weed.” Many political ads in the current race—the ones Peltola had apologized for—have resorted to partisan rage bait (trans fearmongering, Epstein) or personal attacks. These tend to be produced by out-of-state super PACs not connected to either campaign. “I actually don’t think they’re very effective,” Kendall said. “We all know each other. People see Mary or Dan in the airport all the time.”

“阿拉斯加人认为自己首先是阿拉斯加人,其次才是共和党人,而且说实话,他们认为自己是阿拉斯加人的程度超过认为自己是美国人,”斯科特·肯德尔对我说。他是该州一名律师,也是长期为共和党服务的政治顾问。“我们彼此喜欢。对我来说,这挺美好的。我去过华盛顿和其他地方,知道我们这里有多好。”我告诉他,我在本土四十八州形成的许多政治预设在这里并不适用。“我的大多数民主党朋友都有枪,”肯德尔说,“我的很多保守派共和党朋友种大麻。”当前竞选中的许多政治广告——就是佩尔托拉道歉的那些——诉诸党派仇恨诱饵(恐跨煽动、爱泼斯坦)或人身攻击。这些广告往往由与双方竞选团队无关的州外超级政治行动委员会制作。“我其实不觉得它们有多大效果,”肯德尔说,“我们都互相认识。人们在机场经常见到玛丽或丹。”

The fact that subsistence fishing has become important to the campaign is good for Peltola, who once wrote of herself, “I am made of fish,” and less good for Sullivan, who is originally from Ohio and not a notable angler. On a walk in Anchorage, I saw a sidewalk chalked with the words “DAN EATS FARMED FISH WITH KETCHUP.” But he, too, has been forced to weigh in on the issue. In June, back in D.C., he introduced a trawling bill that offered wonkish, incremental changes to fishing practices in Alaska. The bill never made it off the Senate floor, but it did give him something to run on. In Anchorage, Arthur Hackney, who runs a Sullivan-aligned PAC called We Stand with Dan, showed me an ad he’d recently cut. On the screen, the text read “This Election is About Fish, Family, Freedom,” Peltola’s exact campaign motto. Then it said, “On all of these, Senator Dan Sullivan actually delivers results.” Hackney explained, “People don’t understand how easy it is to just take the other person’s thing and you claim it for your own.” A strategist working with the Democrats told me it was surreal to see Sullivan trying to co-opt fishing. “He’s a marine, good-looking guy. There’s a lot of good things you could say about him. He’s not a commercial fisherman.”

自给性捕鱼成为竞选的重要议题,这对佩尔托拉有利——她曾写到自己“是由鱼构成的”——对沙利文则不太有利,他来自俄亥俄州,也不是什么钓鱼高手。在安克雷奇散步时,我看到人行道上用粉笔写着“丹吃养殖鱼还要蘸番茄酱”。但他也不得不对这个问题表态。六月,在华盛顿,他提出了一项拖网捕捞法案,对阿拉斯加的捕捞作业提出了技术性的渐进式改革。该法案从未在参议院获得通过,但确实给了他一个可以宣传的政绩。在安克雷奇,阿瑟·哈克尼经营着一个支持沙利文的政治行动委员会,名为“我们与丹站在一起”。他给我看了一条他最近剪辑的广告。屏幕上写着“这场选举关乎鱼、家庭、自由”——正是佩尔托拉的竞选口号。然后写道:“在所有这些方面,参议员丹·沙利文真正拿出了成果。”哈克尼解释说:“人们不明白,把别人的东西拿过来据为己有有多容易。”一位为民主党工作的策略师告诉我,看到沙利文试图把捕鱼议题据为己有,感觉很不真实。“他是海军陆战队出身,长得也不错。有很多好话可以说他。但他不是商业渔民。”

As I spoke with Peltola voters across Alaska, I noticed a split between those who think she is talking too much about fishing, when a stronger message would be the war in Iran or gas prices, and those who worry that the outside strategists urging the Peltola campaign to focus on national topics will drown out her winning message. Alaska’s core constituency is composed of Natives, fishermen, rural legislators, and unions, with some chamber-of-commerce types mixed in. Peltola is a gun-owning, fish-catching Alaska-bush native, who has worked for mines and supports oil drilling, and is allied with the state’s largest labor unions. “You’ve got a once-in-a-generation candidate who is all the pieces of that coalition as one person,” the strategist told me. “You worry that the federal PACs will come in and fuck all that up. What’s actually somewhat surprising to me is that we’re here in October, and the dominant issue of the race is still trawl bycatch and local fisheries, which says they didn’t fuck it up that bad.”

我在阿拉斯加各地与佩尔托拉的支持者交谈时,注意到一种分歧:一些人认为她谈鱼谈得太多了,更强有力的信息应该是伊朗战争或油价;另一些人则担心,那些敦促佩尔托拉竞选团队聚焦全国性议题的外部策略师会淹没她制胜的信息。阿拉斯加的核心选民由原住民、渔民、乡村立法者和工会组成,还夹杂着一些商会类型的人。佩尔托拉是一个持枪、会捕鱼、来自阿拉斯加丛林的原住民,曾为矿业公司工作,支持石油开采,并与该州最大的工会结盟。“你有一个一代人一遇的候选人,她一个人就是那个联盟的全部组成部分,”那位策略师对我说,“你担心联邦政治行动委员会会进来把这一切搞砸。让我有点意外的是,现在已经是十月了,这场竞选的主导议题仍然是拖网兼捕和地方渔业,这说明他们还没搞得太糟。”

Kodiak Island, in the Gulf of Alaska, is home to a fishing community with a large mom-and-pop fleet and a lot of big trawlers. The evening after I arrived, around sunset, I saw a mother Kodiak bear and her cub scavenging along the shore. Nearby, I noticed a convocation of bald eagles. They were all feasting on pink salmon carcasses, which had floated downriver after spawning days earlier. A local fisherman pointed out that you can find salmon DNA everywhere on the island, even atop the big mountains that run along its interior—bear scat, bird poop. “Salmon is fertilizing the entire goddam system,” he told me. In the Karluk River, on the island’s southwest, king salmon used to be everywhere. By 2024, scientists counted only seventy-six in the entire run.

科迪亚克岛位于阿拉斯加湾,是一个渔业社区所在地,既有大量家庭经营的小船队,也有许多大型拖网船。我到达后的那天傍晚,日落时分,我看到一只科迪亚克母熊和她的幼崽在岸边觅食。附近,我注意到一群白头海雕。它们都在享用粉红鲑的尸体,这些鲑鱼几天前产卵后顺流漂下。一位当地渔民指出,在岛上到处都能找到鲑鱼的DNA,甚至在贯穿岛内的大山顶上——熊粪、鸟粪里都有。“鲑鱼在给整个该死的系统施肥,”他对我说。在岛西南的卡鲁克河,王鲑曾经到处都是。到2024年,科学家在整个洄游季只数到了七十六条。

The next day, I met Jake Everich and Mike Helligso, trawling captains who’d docked their boat, a seventy-three-footer called the Alaskan, next to a cannery. They were in town to deliver a load of pollock for processing. They pointed out to me that death threats had been posted on the anti-trawling Facebook group. (“I bet sinking their boats would work real good.”) Everich added that a trawler friend in town had recently had his tires slashed. He suspected it was anti-trawlers. They invited me aboard, where there was a wall of screens: radar and sonar that help monitor which fish are going into the net. “I spend as much time avoiding the fish we don’t want to catch as catching the fish I do want to catch,” Everich told me. “You make mistakes. But sometimes it’s pretty damn clean.” Alaskan pollock trawlers catch more than three billion pounds of fish annually. Ninety-seven per cent of that is pollock. The majority of the industry’s bycatch is jellyfish, pacific cod, and squid. Sam Murphy, the spokesperson for the Alaska Pollock Fishery Alliance, said that the twenty thousand king salmon they catch annually has averaged .0086 per cent of the total bycatch by weight over the past five years. The N.P.F.M.C. also conducts genetic testing on the salmon bycatch, which shows that most of it consists of not Alaskan salmon but salmon from hatcheries in Russia and Asia. “We’re not even catching that fish that you’re trying to catch,” Helligso said. “That’s, like, a whole different fish.”

第二天,我见到了杰克·埃弗里奇和迈克·赫利格索,两位拖网船长。他们把船——一艘七十三英尺长、名为“阿拉斯加人号”的船——停靠在一家罐头厂旁边。他们来镇上卸一船狭鳕供加工。他们向我指出,反拖网Facebook群组上有人发布了死亡威胁。(“我打赌把他们的船弄沉会很管用。”)埃弗里奇补充说,镇上一位拖网船朋友最近轮胎被人划了。他怀疑是反拖网的人干的。他们邀请我上船,船上有一整面屏幕墙:雷达和声呐帮助监测哪些鱼正在进入网中。“我花在避开我不想捕的鱼上的时间,和花在捕我想捕的鱼上的时间一样多,”埃弗里奇对我说,“你会犯错。但有时候真的相当干净。”阿拉斯加狭鳕拖网船每年捕捞超过三十亿磅鱼。其中百分之九十七是狭鳕。该行业兼捕的大部分是水母、太平洋鳕鱼和鱿鱼。阿拉斯加狭鳕渔业联盟的发言人萨姆·墨菲说,他们每年兼捕的两万条王鲑,在过去五年中平均只占兼捕总重量的百分之零点零零八六。N.P.F.M.C.还对兼捕的鲑鱼进行基因检测,结果显示其中大部分不是阿拉斯加鲑鱼,而是来自俄罗斯和亚洲孵化场的鲑鱼。“我们捕到的甚至不是你想捕的那种鱼,”赫利格索说,“那完全是另一种鱼。”

Everich’s boat was holding three hundred thousand pounds of pollock, the legal limit for a twenty-four hour period. He did it with a single drag, which he said took about ninety minutes. At the dock, a fish pump, which works like a giant vacuum tube, was sucking the fish out of the hold. We could see a small amount of bycatch, which, as far as I could tell, was all rockfish. Helligso grabbed one to show me. He held it by hooking his thumb underneath an eyeball, which was protruding out of its head. Trawling can be brutal. Fish die by being crushed, by asphyxiation, or by barotrauma—when fish surface quickly, things sometimes go pop. Helligso also showed me a pollock. It weighed two pounds or so and looked unremarkable. Pollock generally becomes fish sticks or processed fish products—Filet-O-Fish fish. No one’s putting pollock on a postage stamp. But it’s good, cheap food. This season, pollock sells to canneries for sixteen cents a pound. “There’s the thought, ‘It’s a garbage fish,’ ” Everich said. “It’s a stable source of protein that the majority of the world can eat.”

埃弗里奇的船上装着三十万磅狭鳕,这是二十四小时内的法定上限。他一网就捕到了,他说大约花了九十分钟。在码头,一台鱼泵——像一个巨大的真空管——正把鱼从船舱里吸出来。我们能看见少量兼捕鱼,据我判断,全是石斑鱼。赫利格索抓起一条给我看。他用拇指钩住一只凸出鱼头的眼球把鱼提起来。拖网捕捞可能很残酷。鱼死于挤压、窒息,或者气压伤——当鱼快速浮出水面时,有些东西有时会“砰”地爆开。赫利格索还给我看了一条狭鳕。它大约两磅重,看起来平平无奇。狭鳕通常做成鱼条或加工鱼制品——麦香鱼里的鱼。没人会把狭鳕印上邮票。但它是优质、便宜的食物。这个季节,狭鳕卖给罐头厂的价格是每磅十六美分。“有人觉得,‘这是垃圾鱼,’”埃弗里奇说,“但它是世界上大多数人可以吃的稳定蛋白质来源。”

Trawling is a wedge issue in Kodiak. Many people rely on trawling, directly or indirectly, for work, but small seiners, long-liners, and crab fishermen have major issues with it. (“There’s five different fisheries groups, and they all basically think the others are stealing fish from them,” Hackney, the G.O.P. political consultant, told me.) Kodiak went for Trump by nineteen points in 2024. In the open primary, in August, Peltola won Kodiak by ten points. “This is the only reason a lot of the sons of bitches will vote against Trump,” one left-leaning fisherman told me. Last year, a poll found that almost three-quarters of Alaskans supported a trawl ban. There was virtually no difference in the level of support between Democrats, Republicans, and independents. “They’re making decisions based on emotion and something that sounds good when in fact it’s not true,” Bruce Schactler, a local fisherman who worked for Alaska Seafood Marketing Institute for two decades, told me. “I can’t stand it. Look, it’s a big deal. You have the crash of the king salmon. But it’s everywhere. And it has nothing to do with fishing.” We were at the brewery in town with the mayor, Terry Haines, who is also a retired fisherman, and the host of the Alaska Fisheries Report on KMXT, the local radio station. (He also d.j.s a half-hour spot of soul music every week.) “Bycatch is not the driver of our stock crashes,” he said. “It is simply the only lever that we have to pull. So that makes it a valid reason to look at pulling that lever. But you have to realize that you can pull that lever all the way down to the floor, and you’re still not going to change the environment that’s causing the fishery collapses.”

拖网捕捞在科迪亚克是一个分裂性议题。许多人直接或间接依赖拖网捕捞谋生,但小型围网船、延绳钓船和捕蟹船对此有很大意见。(“这里有五个不同的渔业团体,他们基本上都认为其他人在偷自己的鱼,”共和党政治顾问哈克尼告诉我。)2024年,科迪亚克以十九个百分点投给了特朗普。在八月的开放式初选中,佩尔托拉以十个百分点赢得科迪亚克。“这是很多混蛋愿意投票反对特朗普的唯一原因,”一位倾向左翼的渔民对我说。去年的一项民调发现,近四分之三的阿拉斯加人支持禁止拖网捕捞。民主党人、共和党人和独立人士之间的支持率几乎没有差别。“他们基于情绪和听起来好听的东西做决定,而事实并非如此,”布鲁斯·沙克特勒对我说。他是当地渔民,曾在阿拉斯加海产营销研究所工作了二十年。“我受不了这个。听着,这是件大事。王鲑崩溃了。但到处都在崩溃。这跟捕捞没有关系。”我们当时在镇上的酿酒厂,同座的还有市长特里·海恩斯——他也是一名退休渔民——以及当地电台KMXT《阿拉斯加渔业报道》的主持人。(他每周还做一档半小时的灵魂乐DJ节目。)“兼捕不是鱼类资源崩溃的驱动因素,”他说,“它只是我们唯一能拉动的杠杆。所以把它当作一个值得考虑拉动的杠杆是合理的。但你必须意识到,你可以把那个杠杆拉到最底,你仍然改变不了导致渔业崩溃的环境。”

Peltola insists on what is called “rural preference”: in times of shortage, subsistence fishing must come first. Carrie Stevens, the representative for the Council of Athabascan Tribes, told me, “If people on the rivers have a moratorium to stand down, why is it so obscene to ask others to bear any brunt of conservation?” The tribes contend that the government’s scientists are underestimating the effect of trawling. One argument is that it’s not just the bycatch but the catch itself. Salmon eat juvenile pollock—or would, if they didn’t become fish sticks. Jim Balsiger, who retired as NOAA’s top fisheries official in Alaska in 2021, said recently, “Removing three to four billion pounds of fish from the Bering Sea every year for four decades is not a benign activity.”

佩尔托拉坚持所谓的“乡村优先”:在短缺时期,自给性捕鱼必须放在第一位。阿萨巴斯卡部落委员会代表卡丽·史蒂文斯对我说:“如果河上的人被要求暂停捕鱼,为什么要求其他人承担一点保护的成本就这么不可接受?”部落认为,政府的科学家低估了拖网捕捞的影响。一个论点是,问题不只是兼捕,而是捕捞本身。鲑鱼吃幼年狭鳕——或者说,如果它们没变成鱼条的话,本来会吃。2021年从N.O.A.A.阿拉斯加渔业最高官员职位上退休的吉姆·巴尔西格最近说:“四十年间每年从白令海拿走三四十亿磅鱼,这不是一种无害的行为。”

One morning, I visited a local fisherman named Dave Kubiak in the wheelhouse of his boat, the Lara Lee. He catches salmon, halibut, and crab. He was joined by his dog, Corky, whom he fed bits of muffin and occasionally bantered with. (“You spilled it on the floor, buddy. That’s why I don’t want to give you any more, you dirty little hound dog.”) Kubiak and his peers argue that the trawlers diminish their fish stocks and also cause broader damage to the seafloor. Some trawlers, such as those targeting arrowtooth flounder, are bottom draggers. They crush crabs and tear up vegetation. Pollock trawling is supposed to be midwater. But the nets get so big and heavy that they sometimes drag. “We’re taking huge bites out of the universe without any knowledge of what the hell that means,” Kubiak said.

一天早上,我拜访了当地渔民戴夫·库比亚克,在他那艘“拉拉李号”的驾驶舱里。他捕鲑鱼、大比目鱼和螃蟹。他的狗科基陪着他,他喂狗吃松饼碎块,时不时跟它斗嘴。(“你洒到地板上了,伙计。所以我不想再给你了,你这只脏兮兮的小猎狗。”)库比亚克和他的同行们认为,拖网船减少了他们的鱼类资源,还对海底造成了更广泛的破坏。一些拖网船,比如捕捞箭齿鲽的,是底拖网。它们压碎螃蟹,撕毁植被。狭鳕拖网本应是中层拖网。但网太大太重,有时会拖到海底。“我们在对宇宙大咬一口,却完全不知道那意味着什么,”库比亚克说。

Kubiak taught high-school English for many years. (“Half of the adults in town had him as a teacher,” Haines, the mayor, told me.) In the fall and winter, he’d teach Thoreau and Emerson. In the summer, he’d be on the water. “It completely renews you,” he told me. Most fishermen I talked to told me that they loved their jobs. It pays well. It’s performed outside. There’s a satisfaction in the work: you catch it, people eat it. “Fishing ruins you for an actual job,” Haines told me.

库比亚克教了很多年高中英语。(“镇上有一半的成年人都当过他的学生,”市长海恩斯告诉我。)秋冬季节,他教梭罗和爱默生。夏天,他就在海上。“这能让你彻底焕然一新,”他对我说。我交谈过的大多数渔民都告诉我他们热爱自己的工作。收入不错,在户外工作。工作中有一种满足感:你捕到鱼,人们吃掉它。“捕鱼会让你再也干不了正经工作,”海恩斯对我说。

Fishing jobs like these are essential to Alaskan identity and have been declining across the state. Gunnar Knapp, a professor emeritus at the University of Alaska Anchorage and a prominent fishery economist, told me that the trawling issue has become about more than just fishing regulations. “A lot of this is symbolic. There is a vision that the world economy has been moving inexorably toward this dystopia controlled by large corporations, capitalism, and global enterprises, where the individual is marginalized and means nothing,” Knapp said. “If you’ve ever seen a trawl net when it comes in, it seems so appalling. You think, ‘You won’t have any fish left in the ocean!’ Well, it actually is sustainable, for pollock. But it’s not noble like a guy holding up one subsistence salmon.” The choice for Alaskans is difficult: crack down significantly on trawl, and you’ll limit global food supply and inflict significant damage to the state economy. In return, you’ll possibly get small gains upriver. “It’s less economic than moral or ethical,” Knapp said. “What costs are worth it for even a marginal improvement to the salmon runs? I think some people would say anything is worth it.” As a friend in Anchorage put it, “Trawling is our version of data centers.”

像这样的捕鱼工作对阿拉斯加的身份认同至关重要,而且正在全州范围内减少。冈纳·纳普是阿拉斯加大学安克雷奇分校的荣休教授,也是一位著名的渔业经济学家。他告诉我,拖网捕捞问题已经不仅仅是渔业监管的问题。“这在很大程度上是象征性的。有一种愿景认为,世界经济正不可阻挡地走向一个由大公司、资本主义和全球企业控制的敌托邦,个人被边缘化,毫无意义,”纳普说,“如果你见过拖网收上来时的样子,它看起来太可怕了。你会想,‘海里不会再有鱼了!’嗯,对狭鳕来说,它实际上是可持续的。但它不像一个人举起一条自给性鲑鱼那样高贵。”阿拉斯加人面临的选择很艰难:大力限制拖网捕捞,你会限制全球食品供应,并对州经济造成重大损害。作为回报,你可能会在河流上游获得微小的改善。“这与其说是经济问题,不如说是道德或伦理问题,”纳普说,“为了鲑鱼洄游哪怕一点点的改善,什么代价是值得的?我想有些人会说,任何代价都值得。”正如安克雷奇的一位朋友所说:“拖网捕捞就是我们的数据中心问题。”

The problem in Alaska isn’t finding persuadable voters. It’s reaching them. Campaign staffers pack sleeping bags and pads, in case they get socked in at a remote village. This year, in the election precinct of Nuiqsut, an Iñupiat Eskimo area, only ten people voted in the primary election. It’s about three times the size of New Jersey. On St. George Island, way out in the Bering Sea, Peltola won the primary by a ratio of two to one—two votes total, to one.

阿拉斯加的问题不是找不到可以说服的选民,而是如何接触到他们。竞选工作人员会带上睡袋和垫子,以防被困在偏远村庄。今年,在努伊克苏特——一个因纽皮特爱斯基摩人地区的选举分区——初选中只有十个人投票。那个分区的面积大约是新泽西州的三倍。在遥远的白令海上的圣乔治岛,佩尔托拉以二比一的比例赢得初选——总共两票对一票。

This election season, candidates have hit the campaign trail in bush planes, boats, and dog sleds. (When Peltola’s mother was pregnant with her, she was a volunteer on a congressional campaign; she canvassed for votes on a snowmobile.) During Peltola’s recent Arctic swing, she took flights with the sole purpose of visiting towns with total populations of four hundred and forty-seven, eight hundred and nine, and six hundred and ninety-four.

这个选举季,候选人乘坐丛林飞机、船只和狗拉雪橇跑竞选。(佩尔托拉的母亲怀着她时,曾是一名国会竞选活动的志愿者;她骑着雪地摩托挨家挨户拉票。)佩尔托拉最近的北极之行中,她专门坐飞机去了一些总人口分别为四百四十七、八百零九和六百九十四的城镇。

After the stump speech at the elementary school in Utquagvik, which is roughly as far from Anchorage as New York City is from Charleston, and following a celebration featuring Iñupiaq drumming and dancing, I met with Peltola. So many of her positions—on guns, on oil—are either centrist or defy partisan categorization, as with the fish. I’d asked one political consultant to name some issues where Peltola differed from, say, Lisa Murkowski, who is a moderate, pro-choice Republican. He thought for a while and said, “I’m struggling to think of a good example.” Murkowski is admired by independents and some Democrats in Alaska, while being largely scorned by the MAGA right. It’s not difficult to foresee an inverse dynamic with Peltola and the national left. Peltola’s father was a Republican, and her mother was a supporter of the longtime Republican congressman Don Young. I asked her what made her a Democrat. “The region that I’m from, they’re almost all Democrats,” she told me. “It’s a curiosity to me because the region is very conservative, extremely, extremely conservative. We are very much interested in preserving our Second Amendment rights. We’re into local control. A lot of the things that are part of the Republican platform. But I don’t think anybody’s reading platforms.”

在乌特恰格维克小学的竞选演讲结束后——那里距安克雷奇的距离大致相当于纽约市到查尔斯顿——在一场以因纽皮亚克鼓乐和舞蹈为特色的庆祝活动之后,我见到了佩尔托拉。她的许多立场——关于枪支、关于石油——要么是中间派,要么无法用党派分类,就像鱼的问题一样。我曾请一位政治顾问举出一些佩尔托拉与丽莎·穆尔科斯基——一位温和的、支持堕胎权的共和党人——不同的议题。他想了一会儿说:“我想不出一个好的例子。”穆尔科斯基在阿拉斯加受到独立人士和一些民主党人的敬重,同时被MAGA右翼大加蔑视。不难预见佩尔托拉与全国左翼之间会出现相反的动态。佩尔托拉的父亲是共和党人,母亲是长期担任共和党众议员的唐·扬的支持者。我问她是什么让她成为民主党人。“我来自的那个地区,那里的人几乎全是民主党人,”她告诉我,“这让我很好奇,因为那个地区非常保守,极其极其保守。我们非常在意保护第二修正案权利。我们主张地方自治。很多都是共和党纲领里的内容。但我觉得没人在读纲领。”

Everywhere I visited around the state, I was surprised by how trawling manifested politically. Everich, the trawling captain, said that he used to be “a very strong Republican,” but fish politics had scrambled everything, and he was presently undecided. Although Sullivan is widely viewed by trawlers as less antagonistic, the industry has also been squeezed by rising costs from tariffs, insurance, and fuel. I encountered some MAGA flags along the docks, but this year, Everich said, “Trump supporters have changed their perspectives. To pay seven dollars a gallon for diesel because of a foreign war and then be, like, ‘Go Trump’? That would be difficult.” Kubiak, the retired English teacher and fisherman, was voting for Peltola, but he actually didn’t like her trawling ban. “Too easy,” he said. “She’s painting with a broad brush, and it’s really dangerous to do that.”

我在全州各地走访时,对拖网捕捞在政治上的表现方式感到惊讶。拖网船长埃弗里奇说,他曾经是“一个非常坚定的共和党人”,但鱼类政治打乱了一切,他目前尚未决定投谁。尽管拖网船主普遍认为沙利文不那么敌对,但该行业也受到关税、保险和燃料成本上涨的挤压。我在码头看到一些MAGA旗帜,但今年,埃弗里奇说:“特朗普支持者的看法变了。因为一场外国战争而付七美元一加仑的柴油,然后还说‘加油特朗普’?那很难。”库比亚克,那位退休英语教师兼渔民,打算投给佩尔托拉,但他其实不喜欢她的拖网禁令。“太简单化了,”他说,“她一刀切,这样做真的很危险。”

I asked Peltola if she saw any parallels between the fish battles and fights elsewhere: against climate change, A.I. monopolization, or against the bankers after the Great Recession. (Kubiak told me that he was worried the pollock industry had become “too big to fail.”) She said no. Salmon is uniquely important. “I have not figured out a way to teach my kids Yup’ik values unless we’re hunting and fishing,” she said. As a political issue, its utility is that everyone likes salmon. Peltola told me she has some connections to Utqiagvik, where the big food is muktuk—bowhead-whale blubber and skin. Her late husband liked it. He had a friend in town, and, every year, the man would give him some muktuk. In return, he gave the man some salmon. ♦

我问佩尔托拉,她是否看到鱼类之争与其他地方的斗争有任何相似之处:对抗气候变化、人工智能垄断,或者大衰退之后对抗银行家。(库比亚克告诉我,他担心狭鳕产业已经变得“大到不能倒”。)她说没有。鲑鱼具有独一无二的重要性。“我还没找到一种方法,能在不打猎、不捕鱼的情况下把尤皮克人的价值观教给我的孩子们,”她说。作为一个政治议题,它的效用在于人人都喜欢鲑鱼。佩尔托拉告诉我,她和乌特恰格维克有些渊源,那里的大食物是“马克塔克”——弓头鲸的鲸脂和皮。她已故的丈夫很喜欢吃。他在镇上有位朋友,每年那人都会给他一些马克塔克。作为回报,他给那人一些鲑鱼。♦

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