Letter from Ukraine

A Chernobyl Widow’s Tragedy, Forty Years Later

四十年后,切尔诺贝利一位遗孀的悲剧
Nataliia Khodymchuk lived in memory of her late husband, the first worker to die at the nuclear reactor, until she fell victim to a Russian attack.
娜塔莉娅·霍迪姆丘克(Nataliia Khodymchuk)活在已故丈夫的记忆中——他是核反应堆事故中第一位遇难的工人——直到她自己也成为俄罗斯袭击的牺牲品。
Nataliia Khodymchuk活在已故丈夫的记忆中——他是核反应堆的第一位遇难工人——直到她成为俄罗斯袭击的受害者。
Photo of couple sitting on the snow outside with green background.
Source photograph courtesy Larysa Khodymchuk

Nataliia Khodymchuk’s last evening at home was like many that had come before. She stayed in the neat confines of her three-bedroom apartment in Kyiv, slicing garlic to preserve and knitting socks and scarves to send to Ukrainian soldiers. She moved slowly; the November light faded outside her windows as the darkness of early winter crept in. Typically, Nataliia called her daughter around dinnertime, but she wasn’t feeling well that night and decided to settle in early, on a patterned green couch in the hallway. She called the corridor, with its two thick walls, her “bunker.” It was her best protection from Russian air strikes.

娜塔莉亚·霍迪姆丘克(Nataliia Khodymchuk)在家的最后一晚,与之前的许多夜晚并无二致。她待在基辅那套整洁的三居室公寓里,切着打算腌制的蒜瓣,织着准备寄给乌克兰士兵的袜子和围巾。她的动作很慢;窗外的十一月天光渐渐消逝,初冬的黑暗悄然降临。通常,娜塔莉亚会在晚饭前后给女儿打电话,但那晚她感觉不太舒服,决定早点休息,躺在了走廊里那张印着花纹的绿色沙发上。她把这条有两堵厚墙的走廊称为自己的"掩体"。这是她躲避俄罗斯空袭的最佳防护。

Nataliia, who was seventy-three, lived on the seventh floor of a blocky Soviet-era apartment building on Kyiv’s Left Bank, not far from a power station. Locals called the complex the “Chernobyl House” because it was largely populated by families who had been displaced from the Soviet city of Pripyat, in 1986, following the nuclear disaster. Nataliia’s husband, Valerii Khodemchuk, had been the first person killed in the meltdown, and he was the only victim whose remains were never recovered—his body was lost in the nuclear reactor, buried beneath thousands of tons of concrete and steel. He was thirty-five years old.

娜塔莉娅(Nataliia)七十三岁,住在基辅左岸一栋方方正正的苏联时代公寓楼的七层,离一座发电站不远。当地人把这个小区叫作“切尔诺贝利楼”,因为里面住的大多是1986年核灾难后从苏联城市普里皮亚季(Pripyat)疏散来的家庭。娜塔莉娅的丈夫瓦列里·霍德姆丘克(Valerii Khodemchuk)是那次熔毁事故中第一个遇难的人,也是唯一遗体从未被找到的受害者——他的身体消失在了核反应堆里,被埋在数千吨混凝土和钢材之下。他当时三十五岁。

Nataliia raised their two children, Larysa and Oleh Khodymchuk, as a single mother. Both now lived abroad with their own children. Larysa, who is fifty-three, had moved with her husband to Belarus, in 1991; Oleh, who is four years younger, had relocated his family to Germany after the start of Russia’s full-scale invasion in 2022. Nataliia’s age was catching up with her. Her knees, back, and hands ached. She found it difficult to get around and refused to go to a shelter when Kyiv was under attack, which had become an almost weekly occurrence. Still, she managed to travel by train to her dacha, just outside the city, each summer. The house was rudimentary, with an outdoor toilet and no heating, but she felt most at home working in its garden.

娜塔莉娅独自抚养着两个孩子——拉里莎和奥列赫·霍德姆丘克。如今,两个孩子都已各自成家,定居国外。五十三岁的拉里莎在1991年随丈夫迁居白俄罗斯;小四岁的奥列赫则在2022年俄罗斯全面入侵开始后,举家搬到了德国。年岁不饶人,娜塔莉娅的膝盖、后背和双手都开始隐隐作痛。行动不便的她,在基辅遭受袭击时——这几乎成了每周都会发生的事——也拒绝躲进防空洞。即便如此,每年夏天她还是会乘火车前往城外的乡间小屋。那房子简陋得很,只有户外厕所,没有暖气,但对她来说,在自家花园里劳作才是最自在的时光。
Family in swimwear posing on the beach
Photograph courtesy Larysa Khodymchuk

Nataliia had made many visits to Chernobyl over the years. Her husband’s former colleagues had bolted a memorial plaque to him on the wall between the third and fourth reactor units. Radioactivity levels were too high to stay for longer than a few minutes, and staff always rushed her away. But she felt him there. In two weeks, she planned to return for a special photo shoot in preparation for the commemoration of the disaster’s fortieth anniversary, which is on April 26th. She’d remained devoted to her husband for decades, handing down his memory to their children; donating his medals to the Chernobyl Museum, in Kyiv; and giving interviews about him to journalists, even when she’d rather decline. “You have to pass that pain through yourself every time,” Larysa told me. “But still she agreed. . . . It was her cross.”

多年来,娜塔莉娅曾多次造访切尔诺贝利。她丈夫的旧同事在第三和第四反应堆之间的墙上为他钉了一块纪念牌。那里的辐射水平太高,停留时间不能超过几分钟,工作人员总是催促她离开。但她能感觉到他就在那里。两周后,她计划重返此地,为4月26日灾难四十周年纪念活动拍摄一组特别照片。几十年来,她始终忠于自己的丈夫,将对他的记忆传递给子女;把他的勋章捐赠给基辅的切尔诺贝利博物馆;即使内心不愿,也仍会接受记者采访,讲述关于他的故事。"每次你都得重新经历那份痛苦,"拉里莎告诉我,"但她还是答应了……这是她的十字架。"

Nataliia kept a framed portrait of Valerii on the living-room wall of her apartment. His face was unblemished by the passage of time. Smooth skin, thick eyebrows—just as she remembered him. She told her family that he often appeared to her as she slept. Sometimes in comfort; other times in warning.

娜塔莉娅在公寓客厅的墙上挂着一幅瓦列里的镶框肖像。时光的流逝并未在他脸上留下痕迹——光滑的皮肤、浓密的眉毛,一如她记忆中的模样。她告诉家人,自己常在睡梦中见到他。有时是慰藉,有时是警示。

That night, at around 1 A.M., Kyiv’s air-raid sirens began to wail. Hundreds of Russian drones were descending, each the size of a Jet Ski, accompanied by more than a dozen missiles. Explosions shook the city. One of the drones, with a hundred pounds of explosives packed in its nose, slammed into the seventh floor of the Chernobyl House; Nataliia’s living-room window was its bull’s-eye. Her children later wondered whether it had flown off course, and was perhaps intended for the nearby power plant. “Mathematically, it felt almost impossible,” Oleh later told me. “If you calculate it against the size of the city, the number of apartments, the population, it’s like one chance in several million. And yet, that’s exactly what happened.”

那天深夜,凌晨一点左右,基辅的防空警报开始凄厉地响起。数百架俄罗斯无人机正俯冲而下,每架都有摩托艇那么大,伴随而来的还有十几枚导弹。爆炸声震动了整座城市。其中一架无人机,机头装载着上百磅炸药,径直撞向了切尔诺贝利大楼的七楼——娜塔莉娅客厅的窗户正是它的靶心。事后,她的孩子们猜测,这架无人机是否偏离了航线,原本的目标或许是附近的发电厂。"从概率上讲,这几乎是不可能的,"奥列赫后来告诉我,"如果按城市面积、公寓数量、人口密度来算,这大概是几百万分之一的机会。然而,它偏偏就发生了。"
Building in city during winter
Photograph by Serhiy Morgunov

Nataliia grew up as the third of four children, in the village of Kopachi, where her family raised livestock and grew their own food on state-allotted land. As a child, Nataliia thrashed rye and wove flowered rugs on a loom. Clothes were washed outdoors in a heavy barrel called a zhlukto, or carried to a nearby stream. In winter, she and her siblings dragged their laundry on a sled and cut holes in the ice. Nataliia and her sister, Mariya, who was two years younger, were particularly close. “We did everything together,” Mariya Melnyk, who is now seventy-one, said.

娜塔莉亚在科帕奇村长大,家中四个孩子里排行第三。她家在国家分配的土地上养牲畜、种粮食。小时候,娜塔莉亚打过黑麦,在织布机上织过花毯。衣服在户外一个叫"zhlukto"的重木桶里洗,或者拿到附近的小溪边去洗。冬天,她和兄弟姐妹们用雪橇拉着衣服,在冰面上凿洞。娜塔莉亚和比她小两岁的妹妹玛丽亚关系特别亲密。"我们什么都一起做,"现年七十一岁的玛丽亚·梅尔尼克说。

As teen-agers, the sisters conspired to get jobs in a cafeteria in nearby Pripyat. It was there, sometime in 1970, that Nataliia met Valerii, an Army veteran from Kropyvnia, a village forty miles to the southwest. Both had bought into the Soviet Union’s vision of Pripyat as a gleaming new city that would accompany the Chernobyl nuclear power plant. Valerii, who worked in the plant’s boiler house, and hoped to one day be promoted to one of its reactor shops, was taken by Nataliia’s gentle beauty, practicality, and work ethic. They would walk to the bus stop together after their shifts, then began meeting to dance at a community center in Kopachi. After a few months of dating, he asked her parents for permission to propose. They married in April, 1971. Nataliia was nineteen; Valerii was twenty. They didn’t bother with wedding rings.

姐妹俩十几岁时,便合计着在附近的普里皮亚季(Pripyat)一家自助餐厅找了份工作。正是在那里,1970年的某个时候,娜塔莉娅(Nataliia)遇见了瓦列里(Valerii),一位来自西南方向四十英里外克罗皮夫尼亚(Kropyvnia)村的退伍军人。两人都曾笃信苏联对普里皮亚季的愿景——这座伴随切尔诺贝利核电站而生的崭新城市,将闪耀着光芒。瓦列里在核电站的锅炉房工作,盼着有朝一日能升迁到某个反应堆车间,他被娜塔莉娅温婉的美貌、务实的态度和勤勉的作风所吸引。下班后,他们会一起走到公交车站,随后又相约在科帕奇(Kopachi)的一个社区中心跳舞。约会几个月后,他征得了她父母的同意,向她求婚。1971年4月,他们结了婚。娜塔莉娅十九岁,瓦列里二十岁。两人连婚戒都没费心去买。

Their first home together was a prefabricated trailer. Later, after Pripyat became more developed, Nataliia and Valerii were assigned to a two-bedroom apartment on Lesi Ukrainky Street, not far from where Nataliia’s sister lived. Nataliia and Valerii papered the walls in bright patterns and planted cosmos in the front yard. Pripyat, which was officially declared a city in 1979, grew to a population of around forty-nine thousand people. Dozens of children attended Larysa and Oleh’s kindergarten. After school, the siblings liked to climb in a willow that was in front of their home, hiding from their parents beneath the sweep of its branches.

他们的第一个家是一辆预制拖车。后来,随着普里皮亚季逐渐发展,娜塔莉亚和瓦列里被分配到列霞·乌克兰卡街上的一套两居室公寓,离娜塔莉亚姐姐的住处不远。娜塔莉亚和瓦列里用鲜艳的图案糊了墙纸,在前院种下了波斯菊。普里皮亚季于1979年正式建市,人口增长至约四万九千人。拉里莎和奥列赫所在的幼儿园有几十个孩子。放学后,兄妹俩喜欢爬上家门前的柳树,躲在垂落的枝条下,不让父母发现。

Valerii doted on his son and daughter. He’d grown up without a father and was intent on giving them a different childhood. They hunted for porcini mushrooms with their dog and went cross-country skiing in the forest. In the summer, they went on road trips in Valerii’s white Moskvitch sedan to the Sea of Azov, or went camping by the “Kyiv Sea,” as the vast reservoir near the Ukrainian capital is known. They often spent weekends with Nataliia’s extended family in Kopachi. Larysa, Oleh, and their cousins would scale apple trees and bite into unripe fruit, hard and green. In the fall, the adults would find rotten crescents in the harvest.

瓦列里对一双儿女宠爱有加。他自幼丧父,决心要给孩子一个截然不同的童年。他们带着狗在林间采牛肝菌,在雪原上越野滑雪。夏日里,一家人开着瓦列里的白色莫斯科人轿车去亚速海公路旅行,或在基辅海——乌克兰首都附近那片广袤水库的俗称——旁露营。周末常与娜塔莉娅的大家族在科帕奇村相聚。拉里莎、奥列赫和表兄妹们攀上苹果树,咬下青涩坚硬的果实。待到秋日,大人们总能在收成里发现月牙形的烂斑。

Nataliia and Valerii sometimes went days without seeing each other. When Nataliia was in her early twenties, she got a job as an operator at a water pump station across the street from their home; often, she finished her shift as Valerii started his, in the evening. He’d been promoted to work in one of the nuclear plant’s circulation-pump rooms and then became a senior operator in the pump hall of Chernobyl’s newest reactor, known as Unit 4. Its façade was covered with white tiles that gleamed in the morning light. Valerii was recognized for his prior work in Unit 2 and earned a prestigious award. His portrait was hung up on the city’s honor board. Nataliia invited friends and family over to celebrate, and served stewed potatoes with meat and mushrooms. “Our family was born together with Pripyat and the Chernobyl station,” Larysa said. “We were among those who were creating something new, something completely different from what existed before.”

娜塔莉娅和瓦列里有时一连几天都见不着面。二十岁出头时,娜塔莉娅在家对面街上的水泵站当操作员;傍晚时分,她下班时往往正是瓦列里上班的时候。瓦列里升职了,在核电站的一个循环泵房工作,后来成为切尔诺贝利最新反应堆——四号机组——泵房的高级操作员。反应堆的外墙贴着白色瓷砖,在晨光中闪闪发光。瓦列里因之前在二号机组的工作表现获得表彰,并赢得了一项殊荣。他的肖像被挂在城市的荣誉榜上。娜塔莉娅邀请亲朋好友来家里庆祝,端上了炖土豆配肉和蘑菇。"我们家和普里皮亚季、切尔诺贝利核电站是同时诞生的,"拉里莎说,"我们是那些创造新事物的人,创造着与以往截然不同的东西。"

In the spring of 1986, Nataliia and Valerii celebrated their fifteenth wedding anniversary. That April, Valerii decided to sell his Moskvitch in Kyiv. The transaction would likely take hours—given the registration process, the necessity of sharing a shot of vodka with the new owner, and the bus ride back to Pripyat—and Valerii thought he might not return in time for his midnight shift. A friend and colleague of his, Oleksandr Zelentsov, who was scheduled to work the following morning at 8 A.M., agreed to trade shifts with him.

1986年春天,娜塔莉娅(Nataliia)和瓦列里(Valerii)庆祝了他们的十五周年结婚纪念日。那年四月,瓦列里决定在基辅卖掉他的莫斯科人牌汽车。考虑到注册手续、与新车主共饮一杯伏特加的必要性,以及乘公交车返回普里皮亚季的路程,这笔交易很可能要花上好几个小时——瓦列里担心自己赶不上午夜班次。他的朋友兼同事亚历山大·泽连佐夫(Oleksandr Zelentsov)原本排班在次日早上八点上班,便同意与他调换班次。

But the sale went more swiftly than expected. Valerii gave the car’s new owner an icon of a protective saint, which he usually kept tucked into the car’s front panel. He was back in Pripyat by dinnertime. He called Zelentsov and told him not to worry about the trade. Zelentsov, who is now seventy-five, told me, “If I had gone, then you would not be talking to me now. You would be talking to him.”

但交易比预想中更快完成。瓦列里将一枚护身圣像——他通常塞在车前板里——交给了新车主。晚饭时分,他已回到普里皮亚季。他给泽连佐夫打电话,让他不必为这笔交易操心。如今七十五岁的泽连佐夫告诉我:"要是我去了,你现在就没法跟我说话了。你该跟他聊了。"

Valerii warned Nataliia that it was going to be a hard night. His reactor unit was being prepared for maintenance. During the process, on orders from Moscow, operators would be testing the turbines’ backup power system. “We’ll be shutting down the reactor,” he told her.

瓦列里(Valerii)警告娜塔莉娅(Nataliia),今晚会很难熬。他的反应堆机组正在为维护做准备。根据莫斯科的指令,操作员将在过程中测试涡轮机的备用电源系统。“我们要关闭反应堆了,”他告诉她。

Nataliia was watching a romance film on television. It was her day off. The children—Larysa was thirteen; Oleh was nine—were in bed. She mulled over the plot of the film and turned to Valerii as he was heading out the door. Their initial meeting in the cafeteria seemed long ago. She asked him, “Did you marry me for love or convenience?”

娜塔莉亚正在看电视上播放的爱情片。今天是她的休息日。孩子们——拉里莎十三岁,奥列赫九岁——已经上床睡觉了。她琢磨着电影的剧情,在瓦列里正要出门时转向他。他们在食堂初次相遇的情景仿佛已是遥远的往事。她问他:“你娶我是因为爱,还是因为方便?”

“For love, of course,” he told her.

“当然是为了爱,”他对她说。

He kissed her goodbye and promised to return.

他吻别了她,承诺一定会回来。
Peeling green floral wallpaper

The peeling wallpaper in the bedroom of Nataliia and Valerii’s apartment on Lesi Ukrainky Street in Pripyat.

普里皮亚季市列西·乌克兰卡大街上,娜塔莉娅与瓦列里公寓卧室里,墙纸正片片剥落。
普里皮亚季市列西·乌克兰卡大街上,娜塔莉娅与瓦列里公寓卧室里,墙纸正片片剥落。
Photograph by Serhiy Morgunov

It was nearing midnight when Valerii arrived at Chernobyl. He started changing into his work uniform and stashed his shirt and pants in a locker. But he noticed that the starched white fabric of his uniform was dirty. Valerii was meticulous and detail-oriented, often to a fault. His colleagues ribbed him about this type of behavior; he requested a new uniform and changed again.

将近午夜时分,瓦列里抵达切尔诺贝利。他换上工作服,将衬衫和裤子塞进储物柜,却发现浆洗得笔挺的白色制服上沾了污渍。瓦列里是个细致入微、精益求精的人,有时甚至到了吹毛求疵的地步。同事们常拿他这股劲儿打趣;他索要了一套新制服,重新换上。

Valerii’s first task each evening was to read the operational log. He saw that the emergency core-cooling system, which would pump water to the reactor to prevent an explosion, had been taken out of service. Valerii asked the senior operator on duty, Mykhailo Rybochkin, whose shift was ending, why the emergency system was down. Rybochkin said that the unit’s chief engineer had ordered it. Valerii asked for more information about the scheduled test and grew increasingly agitated by the vagueness of Rybochkin’s answers. Valerii refused to sign the log and accept his shift; Rybochkin couldn’t go home until he did. “It went all the way to the shift supervisor of the reactor shop,” Rybochkin said, in 2020, in an interview for a Ukrainian documentary. “I started calling him, saying, ‘Either I stay on the shift, or he accepts it, because my bus is about to leave, and that’s it.’ ”

瓦列里每晚的第一项任务就是阅读运行日志。他发现应急堆芯冷却系统——这套系统本应向反应堆注水以防止爆炸——已被停用。瓦列里询问即将交班的资深操作员米哈伊洛·雷博奇金(Mykhailo Rybochkin),为何应急系统处于关闭状态。雷博奇金回答说是机组总工程师下的命令。瓦列里追问预定试验的更多细节,雷博奇金含糊其辞的回答让他愈发焦躁。瓦列里拒绝在日志上签字交接班次;雷博奇金因此无法下班回家。"这事一直闹到了反应堆车间的值班主管那里,"雷博奇金在2020年接受乌克兰纪录片采访时说,"我开始给他打电话,说'要么我继续值班,要么他接下这个班,因为我的班车就要开了,就这么简单。'"

Their supervisor called Valerii and told him to sign the log. They needed to start the test and couldn’t hold it up on his behalf. “Something was bothering him,” Rybochkin said, of Valerii. “I tried to explain that everything was fine, the unit was already operating at half power, they would shut it down, and that would be that. He signed. I left around five minutes past midnight.”

他们的主管叫住瓦列里,让他签值班日志。测试必须开始,不能因为他一个人耽误。“他当时心里有事,”雷博奇金说起瓦列里,“我试着跟他解释,一切都没问题,机组已经半功率运行,他们会关掉它,事情就这么简单。他签了字。我离开时是午夜刚过五分钟。”

About an hour and fifteen minutes later, Valerii noticed that the water-circulation pumps, designed to remove heat from the reactor core, were violently shaking. He walked to the pump hall to investigate the issue, then called the control room for help. An uncontrollable rise in heat was causing the water to vaporize. The reactor had failed to properly shut down.

大约一小时十五分钟后,瓦列里注意到用于排出反应堆堆芯热量的水循环泵剧烈摇晃。他走到泵房检查问题,随后向控制室求助。热量失控上升导致水汽化,反应堆未能正常关闭。

Valerii’s call was interrupted by an explosion so powerful that it ripped off the reactor’s roof. Flames stabbed the air. Radiation pumped into the night sky. Valerii was likely crushed by debris in the initial explosion. Still, his colleagues spent hours searching for him, peering through a haze of radioactive steam and smoke that would eventually kill some of them. After their shift ended, the next group kept searching. By that evening, they’d all but given up. Two workers were dispatched to tell Nataliia.

瓦列里的通话被一声巨响打断——爆炸的威力掀翻了反应堆的屋顶。烈焰直冲云霄,辐射如泉涌般喷入夜空。瓦列里很可能在最初的爆炸中就被瓦砾压中。然而,他的同事们仍在放射性蒸汽与浓烟中搜寻了他数小时——这片致命的迷雾最终将夺去其中几人的性命。换班结束后,下一组人继续搜寻。到了当晚,他们几乎放弃了希望。两名工人被派去通知娜塔莉娅。

Nataliia had been looking for Valerii since morning, when her sister came over with news of the explosion. Nataliia had gone to the bus station, where soldiers were spraying foam to contain the nuclear fallout, and to the hospital, where men in white coats were unloading victims on stretchers from the backs of ambulances. She went to the morgue and stood on a box so she could see through a tall window at the pale bodies inside. None of them were her husband. The phone lines to the plant were down. She gave up her search and went home.

娜塔莉娅从清晨起就在寻找瓦列里,那时她姐姐带来了爆炸的消息。她去了汽车站,士兵们正在喷洒泡沫以控制核辐射扩散;又去了医院,穿白大褂的人正从救护车后厢抬下担架上的伤员。她来到太平间,站上一个箱子,透过高窗望见里面苍白的尸体——没有一个是她的丈夫。电站的电话线路已经中断。她放弃了寻找,转身回家。

Valerii’s colleagues arrived soon after. They told her that he was missing and asked if she wanted them to keep looking. Nataliia could feel that he was gone. “If my children are now orphaned, then let other children keep their fathers,” she told them.

瓦列里的同事们很快赶到。他们告诉她瓦列里失踪了,并询问是否要继续搜寻。娜塔莉娅能感觉到他已经不在了。“如果我的孩子现在成了孤儿,那就让其他孩子保住他们的父亲吧,”她对他们说。

The next day, Nataliia was washing the landing outside of her apartment with vinegar, as advised by officials, when an evacuation order was issued. Authorities instructed residents to leave their pets and not take anything more than what was needed for three days, at which point they were told they could return to Pripyat. To locals, Soviet leaders seemed to be downplaying the severity of the explosion. To the international community, they outright denied the incident, and prohibited the release of any information about Chernobyl. But a radioactive cloud was wafting across Europe, setting off alarms in a Swedish laboratory nearly seven hundred miles away and slowly sickening tens of thousands of people. As evidence mounted that Moscow was lying, Ronald Reagan, then on a state visit to Japan, remarked that the Kremlin’s “handling of this incident manifests a disregard for the legitimate concerns of people everywhere.”

次日,娜塔莉亚按照官方的建议,用醋擦拭公寓外的楼梯间,这时疏散令下达了。当局指示居民留下宠物,只带够三天用的物品,并告知他们届时可以返回普里皮亚季。对当地人来说,苏联领导人似乎在淡化爆炸的严重性;而对国际社会,他们则完全否认事故的发生,并禁止发布任何关于切尔诺贝利的信息。然而,放射性云团正飘过欧洲,在近七百英里外的瑞典实验室触发警报,并缓慢地让数万人染病。随着证据表明莫斯科在撒谎,当时正在日本进行国事访问的罗纳德·里根评论道,克里姆林宫“对此事件的处理,显示出对世界各地人民合理关切的漠视”。

Nataliia boarded an evacuation bus with Larysa and Oleh, who still recall the treasured items they left behind: a stuffed monkey, a doll, a remote-controlled car. For a time, the family stayed with Valerii’s mother in Kropyvnia. Nataliia told her mother-in-law that Valerii was in Moscow for medical treatment, a lie that she maintained until May, when Mikhail Gorbachev, the General Secretary of the Communist Party, announced on a newscast that Valerii had been one of two fatalities at Chernobyl—the only deaths that Gorbachev acknowledged in his speech.

娜塔莉亚与拉里莎和奥列赫一同登上了疏散巴士,他们至今仍记得遗落在家中的珍贵物品:一只毛绒猴子、一个玩偶、一辆遥控汽车。一家人先在克罗皮夫尼亚的瓦列里母亲家暂住了一段时间。娜塔莉亚告诉婆婆,瓦列里在莫斯科接受治疗——这个谎言一直维持到五月,直到共产党总书记米哈伊尔·戈尔巴乔夫在新闻播报中宣布,瓦列里是切尔诺贝利事故中两名遇难者之一——这也是戈尔巴乔夫在讲话中唯一承认的死亡人数。

That summer, Larysa and Oleh were sent to camp in Crimea. Nataliia returned to Chernobyl to continue her work at the water-pump station for a few weeks, and earned the title of “liquidator,” but Pripyat, poisoned and emptied, would never again be her home. The family moved to Kyiv before school started in the fall, resettling in a block of apartments that had been hastily reserved for families like theirs, edging out others who had been languishing on the housing list. Other students taunted Larysa and Oleh, calling them “Chernobyl hedgehogs” and starting rumors that they were radioactive. Nataliia found a job in a dormitory, issuing bed linens to residents. She tried to get Valerii’s death certificate issued, which would bring closure as well as extra income as his widow, but it was virtually impossible without a body. “After the accident, we were scattered far apart,” her sister Melnyk, who eventually moved with her husband to a village southeast of Kyiv, told me. “Everything was taken: our land, our families, and even the last place where we could return and remember.”

那年夏天,拉里莎和奥列赫被送往克里米亚的夏令营。娜塔莉娅回到切尔诺贝利,在泵站继续工作了数周,获得了"清理人"的称号,但普里皮亚季——这座被毒害、被掏空的城市——再也不会是她的家了。秋天开学前,全家搬到了基辅,住进了一栋为她们这样的家庭匆忙预留的公寓楼,挤掉了那些在住房名单上等待已久的人。其他学生嘲笑拉里莎和奥列赫,叫他们"切尔诺贝利刺猬",还散布谣言说他们身上有放射性。娜塔莉娅在宿舍楼找到了一份工作,负责给住户分发床单。她试图为瓦列里开具死亡证明——这不仅能带来一个了结,还能让她作为遗孀获得额外收入——但没有尸体,这几乎是不可能的。"事故之后,我们被分散到天各一方,"她的妹妹梅尔尼克告诉我,她最终和丈夫搬到了基辅东南部的一个村庄。"一切都被夺走了:我们的土地,我们的家人,甚至那个我们还能回去、还能怀念的地方。"

Still, Nataliia tried to make their new apartment a home. She bought furniture and hung the portrait of Valerii. She never forgot the soft curl of her husband’s dark hair, his dimpled smile, or the timbre of his voice. During the following decades, she was often asked whether it was time to find a new partner. She wasn’t interested in remarrying. Valerii had promised to return.

尽管如此,娜塔莉娅仍努力将新公寓布置成家。她购置了家具,挂上了瓦列里的肖像。她从未忘记丈夫那头柔软卷曲的黑发、带着酒窝的笑容,以及他嗓音的独特音色。此后的数十年间,常有人问她是否该找个新伴侣了。她无意再婚——瓦列里曾承诺会回来。
Memorial with plaque and flowers

The memorial plaque to Valerii Khodemchuk at the Chornobyl Nuclear Power Plant.

切尔诺贝利核电站内,瓦列里·霍德姆丘克(Valerii Khodemchuk)的纪念牌匾静静伫立。
切尔诺贝利核电站内,瓦列里·霍德姆丘克(Valerii Khodemchuk)的纪念牌匾静静伫立。
Photograph by Serhiy Morgunov

Chernobyl, once a popular tourist destination, has been closed to most visitors since Russian troops, crossing into Ukraine from Belarus, briefly occupied the plant four years ago. But this winter, after weeks of planning and multiple requests, the Ukrainian government allowed me to visit with a photographer and fixer named Serhiy Morgunov. We drove two and a half hours north from Kyiv, through a checkpoint, and into the exclusion zone.

切尔诺贝利曾是一处热门旅游目的地,但自四年前俄军从白俄罗斯越境进入乌克兰、短暂占领该核电站以来,这里已对大多数游客关闭。然而今年冬天,经过数周筹备和多次申请,乌克兰政府允许我携摄影师兼协调人谢尔希·莫尔古诺夫(Serhiy Morgunov)一同前往。我们从基辅向北驱车两个半小时,穿过检查站,进入了隔离区。

The Ukrainian military still maintains a presence at Chernobyl, closely guarding the infrastructure and protecting one of the main roads to Kyiv from another Russian assault. But on the day we visited, all was quiet, the landscape wild and untamed. A decade ago, the Ukrainian government carved a nearly nine-hundred square-mile ecological biosphere reserve out of the exclusion zone, encouraging the recovery of native species and vegetation. Populations of lynx, brown bears, and moose have since rebounded.

乌克兰军方仍在切尔诺贝利驻守,严密守护基础设施,并保卫通往基辅的主要道路之一,以防俄军再次进攻。但我们到访那天,一切都很平静,荒野苍茫,未经驯服。十年前,乌克兰政府从隔离区划出近九百平方英里的生态生物圈保护区,以促进本土物种和植被的恢复。自那以后,猞猁、棕熊和驼鹿的数量已有所回升。

As we approached Pripyat, the arched spine of a steel container grazed the sky. The protective structure, which looks like a giant airplane hangar, was pitched over the destroyed reactor in 2016 to prevent radioactive leaks. The life span of the “New Safe Confinement” arch is only a hundred years. Then a new structure will need to be built, and so on, for millennia. When we arrived, the workers and engineers were still talking about a Russian drone that had slammed into the arch in February, 2025, sparking a fire and threatening another nuclear disaster. Moscow denied the attack.

接近普里皮亚季时,一座钢制拱形结构的脊线划破天际。这个形似巨型飞机库的防护装置于2016年架设在损毁的反应堆上方,用以防止放射性物质泄漏。这座"新安全围护体"拱顶的设计寿命仅有一百年。届时需要建造新的结构,如此循环往复,延续数千年。当我们抵达时,工人们和工程师们仍在谈论2025年2月一架俄罗斯无人机撞击拱顶的事件——那次撞击引发火灾,险些酿成又一场核灾难。莫斯科方面否认发动了这次袭击。

We checked in at Chernobyl’s main office and were given dosimeters that would monitor the radiation levels accumulating in our bodies. After we signed liability waivers acknowledging the risk, a government-appointed guide climbed into our car, and we set out for Lesi Ukrainky Street. Larysa and Oleh had described a very different Pripyat to what I saw. The city of their childhood was idyllic. They could buy bananas and tangerines at the grocery store, seemingly unaffected by the rationing that strangled other cities in the Soviet Union. New Year’s Eve brought music and dancing to the central square. There were accordions and tambourines, and a giant fir tree that, one year, toppled under its own weight. Now, as we drove deeper into Pripyat, we found a jungle where there was once a city. Trees grew on the roof of the Polissya Hotel, which once housed nuclear scientists; at the Palace of Culture Energetik in the city’s center, frozen rain collected inside of a decrepit swimming pool. Our Geiger counter, which took live measurements of the environment, clicked quietly.

我们在切尔诺贝利的主办公室登记,领取了监测体内累积辐射水平的剂量计。签署了承认风险的免责声明后,一位政府指派的向导钻进我们的车,一行人便驶向列西·乌克兰卡街。拉里莎和奥列赫曾向我描述过的普里皮亚季,与我眼前所见截然不同。他们童年时代的城市宛如田园诗般美好:杂货店里能买到香蕉和橘子,似乎完全不受苏联其他城市普遍实行的配给制影响;除夕夜,中央广场上音乐与舞蹈交织,手风琴和铃鼓齐鸣,还有一棵巨大的冷杉树——有一年,它竟被自身的重量压垮了。如今,随着我们深入普里皮亚季,眼前所见不再是城市,而是一片丛林。波利西亚酒店——曾接待过核科学家的地方——屋顶上长出了树木;市中心的文化宫“能源者”内,破败的游泳池里积满了冻雨。我们的盖革计数器实时测量着环境辐射,发出轻微的咔嗒声。

We parked near Nataliia’s former workplace, the water-pump station, which is still in operation. The operator on shift that day, a squarely built fifty-eight-year-old man, with close-cropped gray hair, remembered Nataliia from one of her visits to Valerii’s monument. He was born nine miles away and, though he was forced to evacuate as a teen-ager, he still considered Chernobyl his “fatherland.” He worked ten-day shifts at the station to stay connected to the place where he’d grown up. Across the street, through a thick tangle of forest, the Khodymchuks’ building stood tall and gray in the snow. The willow out front, where the children used to play, was thick and crooked with age. Our guide cautioned us to watch our step as we entered the building. The foundation was crumbling. On the door of a first-floor apartment, a message was written in marker: “We remember you.”

我们把车停在娜塔莉亚(Nataliia)曾工作过的水泵站附近,这座泵站至今仍在运转。当天值班的操作员是个五十八岁的壮实男人,灰白的短发,他记得娜塔莉亚曾来此凭吊瓦列里(Valerii)的纪念碑。他出生在九英里外的地方,尽管十几岁时被迫撤离,却仍将切尔诺贝利视为自己的"祖国"。他在泵站工作十天一轮的班次,只为与成长之地保持联系。街对面,穿过茂密交错的树林,霍迪姆丘克家的楼房在雪中矗立,灰暗而高大。门前的柳树曾供孩子们玩耍,如今因岁月而粗壮弯曲。向导提醒我们进入楼内时注意脚下——地基正在崩裂。一楼公寓的门上,用马克笔写着一行字:"我们记得你。"

Larysa had said their apartment was just up the stairs and to the left. Serhiy, my photographer and fixer, stopped to study a bank of mailboxes in the stairwell. He saw Valerii’s name— faded but still legible—on apartment 39. We climbed to the second floor. The Khodymchuks’ front door was thrown open. An icy wind blew through the buckled windows. The bright wallpaper that Nataliia and Valerii had hung was sloughing off in layers, green giving way to roses. Broken furniture was piled in a front room. A bouquet of dead flowers, wrapped in plastic and tied with a blue ribbon, rested on the sink in the kitchen.

拉里莎说过,他们的公寓就在楼梯上去左手边。我的摄影师兼向导谢尔盖停下脚步,仔细端详楼梯间的一排信箱。他在39号信箱上看到了瓦列里的名字——字迹虽已褪色,但仍可辨认。我们爬上二楼。霍德姆丘克家的前门大敞着。凛冽的寒风从扭曲的窗户灌进来。娜塔莉娅和瓦列里亲手贴的亮色墙纸正层层剥落,绿色之下露出玫瑰图案。前厅里堆着破碎的家具。厨房水槽上放着一束枯萎的花,用塑料纸包着,系着蓝色丝带。

That night, as we drove through the exclusion zone and back to Kyiv, we passed what remained of Kopachi, the village where Nataliia’s family had lived for generations. The houses, deemed radioactive, had been levelled and buried, along with the apple orchard. Only mounded hills remained. After the accident, Nataliia and her sister had taken a walk to say goodbye to their ancestral land. Strolling across a small bridge, they recalled the chore of wintertime laundry. The stream rushed by, as clear and inviting as the nearby lake that their father forbade them from swimming in. Deep marshes concealed quicksand, he told them. If they stepped in, they’d never be able to leave.

那天夜里,我们驱车穿过禁区,返回基辅,途经科帕奇村的遗迹——娜塔莉娅家族世代居住的村庄。那些房屋因被判定具有放射性,连同苹果园一起被夷平掩埋,只剩下隆起的土丘。事故发生后,娜塔莉娅和妹妹曾去走了一趟,向祖辈的土地告别。走过一座小桥时,她们想起了冬天洗衣服的苦差事。溪水潺潺流过,清澈诱人,就像附近的湖泊——父亲曾禁止她们去那里游泳。他告诉她们,深深的沼泽里藏着流沙。一旦踩进去,就再也出不来了。

This land, now dotted with Russian mines, is currently inaccessible. After Russia’s invasion and illegal annexation of Crimea, in 2014, Nataliia couldn’t visit her husband’s ceremonial grave, in Mitinskoe Cemetery, in Moscow, either. She’d fought for Valerii to receive a headstone there in 1998, alongside twenty-seven other plant workers and firefighters who had died in the blast or from radiation poisoning. She interred a shirt that Valerii had worn in the days before his last shift. She could never bring herself to wash it, hoping to retain the scent of him.

如今,这片布满俄军地雷的土地已无法进入。自2014年俄罗斯入侵并非法吞并克里米亚后,娜塔莉娅也无法再前往莫斯科米京斯科耶公墓,祭拜丈夫的象征性墓地。1998年,她曾为瓦列里争取到那里的一块墓碑——与另外二十七名在爆炸中丧生或死于辐射中毒的工厂工人和消防员并列。她将瓦列里最后一个班次前穿过的衬衫葬入墓中。她始终不忍心清洗这件衬衫,只希望能留住他身上的气息。

Larysa and Oleh had accumulated other losses at the hands of Moscow. Oleh had moved from Ukraine to Germany, in part, to give his son, who was then seventeen, a life that wasn’t dictated by Russia’s war. His five-year-old daughter, Valeriia, named after her grandfather, was growing up in a country that wasn’t her own. Meanwhile, Larysa was stuck in Belarus, a country allied with Russia that Nataliia despised and had refused to move to, despite her daughter’s many pleas. “We have now lost everything,” Larysa told me. “We are now in the same state that Mom once was. To lose your home, your native land, that’s like falling from a bridge into a huge abyss with no way back. Now we have no way back either. We had Mom, we had a home, an apartment—somewhere to come back to. Now there is nothing.”

拉里莎和奥列赫在莫斯科手中还承受了其他损失。奥列赫从乌克兰搬到了德国,部分原因是为了让当时十七岁的儿子过上不被俄罗斯战争左右的生活。他五岁的女儿瓦列里娅——以祖父的名字命名——正在一个不属于她自己的国家长大。与此同时,拉里莎被困在白俄罗斯,这个与俄罗斯结盟的国家是娜塔莉娅所厌恶的,尽管女儿多次恳求,她始终拒绝搬过去。"我们现在失去了一切,"拉里莎告诉我,"我们如今和妈妈当年的处境一样。失去家园、失去故土,就像从桥上坠入无底深渊,再也无法回头。现在我们也没有回头路了。曾经我们有妈妈,有家,有公寓——有个可以回去的地方。现在什么都没有了。"
Room in apartment that is burnt and destroyed with boarded up window
Oleh’s childhood bedroom in Nataliia’s apartment, which was destroyed by the fire.
娜塔莉娅公寓里奥列赫童年的卧室,已被大火烧毁。
Photograph by Serhiy Morgunov

The drone’s explosion incinerated the doors of Nataliia’s apartment. Smoke spiralled upward through the floors above. “There was nothing left to breathe,” one neighbor later told me. Outside, flames streaked across the darkness. Window frames littered the pavement. Car alarms wailed in a parking lot. Nataliia, protected by the walls of her hallway bunker, was mostly unscathed.

无人机的爆炸将娜塔莉亚(Nataliia)公寓的门烧成了灰烬。烟雾顺着楼层向上盘旋。“连呼吸都成了奢望,”一位邻居后来告诉我。窗外,火光划破黑暗,窗框散落在人行道上,停车场的汽车警报声此起彼伏。娜塔莉亚因躲在走廊掩体的墙壁后,几乎毫发无伤。

She stepped outside and met her next-door neighbor, Iryna Butina, in the external corridor of their two apartments. Butina, who, at thirty-six, was undergoing cancer treatment, had a thirteen-year-old daughter and a seventeen-month-old son. Nataliia tried to open the door that led to their floor’s elevator and stairwell, but the blast had jammed it shut. “She said we had to put out the fire in her apartment,” Butina told me. “I asked, with my child in my arms, ‘With what?’ ”

她走出家门,在两家公寓共用的外廊上遇到了隔壁邻居伊琳娜·布蒂娜(Iryna Butina)。三十六岁的布蒂娜正在接受癌症治疗,有一个十三岁的女儿和一个十七个月大的儿子。娜塔莉娅试图打开通往本层电梯和楼梯间的门,但爆炸产生的冲击波把门卡死了。"她说我们必须扑灭她家的大火,"布蒂娜告诉我,"我抱着孩子问,'用什么扑?'"

Nataliia, moving as quickly as she could, went back inside her apartment. What little she had left of Valerii—his portrait; his leather belt in the front closet; photo albums showing everything she’d left behind in Kopachi and Pripyat—risked catching flame. She had filled her tub with water in preparation for utility cuts after an attack. She scooped up the bathwater with her hands and poured what she could on the fire, but it was futile. The flames overtook the apartment—and her with it. Her hair burned. The skin on nearly half her body blistered and seeped. She gave up on trying to save her home.

娜塔莉亚以最快的速度冲回公寓。她仅存的瓦列里遗物——他的肖像画、前门衣柜里的皮带、记录着她在科帕奇和普里皮亚季所有往事的相册——都面临被火焰吞噬的危险。她早已在浴缸里储满水,为袭击后可能断水断电做准备。她用手捧起浴缸里的水,尽力泼向火苗,但无济于事。火焰吞噬了公寓——也吞噬了她。她的头发烧着了,近半身皮肤起泡渗液。她放弃了拯救家园的念头。

In the hallway, the door was still jammed. Butina kept trying to pry it open. Smoke roiled the air, thick and black. She felt like she was choking. She’d sent her daughter and son back into their apartment to wait, telling them to breathe out an open window. Butina prayed. “I said, ‘God, please, I don’t want to see my children die. Help me open this lock.’ And at that moment it opened.”

走廊里,门依然卡死。布蒂娜不停试着撬开它。浓烟翻滚,漆黑如墨,她感到窒息。她已让女儿和儿子退回公寓等候,叮嘱他们对着敞开的窗户呼吸。布蒂娜开始祈祷。"我说:‘上帝啊,求求你,我不想看着我的孩子死去。帮我把这锁打开吧。’就在那一刻,门开了。"

It felt like a miracle. Butina moved her children into the stairwell, away from the flames. Just then, Nataliia reappeared. She was barefoot and in shock. Her nightgown had melted. She asked Butina to call an ambulance. Butina told Nataliia that they needed to leave. Nataliia hobbled down seven flights of stairs, stopping briefly on the third floor to borrow slippers and a sweater from a friend to cover her pink skin. She draped a shawl around her head. Once outside, Nataliia slid into the back of an ambulance and was rushed to the nearest burn center. She died early the next day; six other people were killed in the attack. The Ukrainian President, Volodymyr Zelensky, called it a “new tragedy caused once again by the Kremlin.”

那感觉就像一场奇迹。布蒂娜把孩子们带进楼梯间,远离火焰。就在这时,娜塔莉娅出现了。她赤着脚,惊魂未定,睡衣已经熔化。她请布蒂娜叫救护车。布蒂娜告诉她必须离开。娜塔莉娅一瘸一拐地走下七层楼梯,在三楼短暂停留,向朋友借了双拖鞋和一件毛衣,遮住她泛红的皮肤。她在头上裹了一条披肩。到了外面,娜塔莉娅爬进一辆救护车的后座,被紧急送往最近的烧伤中心。第二天一早,她去世了;这次袭击中共有六人丧生。乌克兰总统弗拉基米尔·泽连斯基称其为“又一次由克里姆林宫造成的新悲剧”。

News of Nataliia’s death spread quickly across Ukraine, a nation that is, by now, mostly inured to the nightly tick of deaths. Last year was the deadliest for civilians since 2022, the start of the full-scale war, with more than 2,500 fatalities, up thirty-one per cent from the previous year, despite Moscow’s insistence that the Russian Army does not target civilians. Nataliia’s death sparked a period of national grief. I scrolled through black-and-white photos of Nataliia posted by local news stations. There she was standing in a grocery store with her sister, round-cheeked and young, or reclined in the snow next to Valerii, in Pripyat.

纳塔莉娅的死讯迅速传遍乌克兰——这个国家如今已对每日夜间更新的死亡数字近乎麻木。2024年是自2022年全面战争爆发以来平民伤亡最惨重的一年,超过2500人遇难,较前一年激增31%,尽管莫斯科坚称俄军从不以平民为目标。纳塔莉娅之死却引发了全国性的哀悼。我翻看着当地新闻台发布的纳塔莉娅黑白照片:她与姐姐并肩站在杂货店里,圆润的脸庞透着青春气息;或是在普里皮亚季,与瓦列里依偎着斜倚在雪地上。

A few days after the attack, workers arrived at the Chernobyl House to nail plywood over the gaping windows of Nataliia’s apartment, which was blackened with soot. The updraft knifed through the building, whose inhabitants were already suffering without heat or power for much of the winter as Russia pounded Ukraine’s energy system. Nataliia’s neighbors took stock of what had survived: some stray potatoes on the balcony; a few blouses; a book about nuclear power, the spine cracked open to an essay by the Soviet atomic-reactor pioneer Nikolai Dollezhal, “The Birth of Peaceful Nuclear Energy.”

袭击发生几天后,工人们来到切尔诺贝利楼(Chernobyl House),用胶合板钉住娜塔莉娅(Nataliia)公寓那被烟灰熏黑的豁然洞开的窗户。穿堂风如刀般掠过整栋楼,而楼里的居民们早已在俄罗斯对乌克兰能源系统的狂轰滥炸中,忍受了漫长冬日里大部分时间无暖无电的煎熬。娜塔莉娅的邻居们清点了劫后余生的物件:阳台上散落的几颗土豆;几件衬衫;一本关于核能的书,书脊裂开,翻到苏联原子反应堆先驱尼古拉·多列扎尔(Nikolai Dollezhal)的一篇文章——《和平核能的诞生》。

Nataliia was buried in her sister Melnyk’s village, southeast of Kyiv. This spring, Melnyk will seed marigolds, chrysanthemums and lavender at the site. Nataliia’s children won’t be there to see them bloom. “How did that fragile woman carry all of this?” Larysa said. “I only understood it later, with age—when I got married myself, when I arranged my own home, when I had children. The weight she carried inside herself.”

娜塔莉娅被安葬在姐姐梅尔尼克位于基辅东南方向的村庄里。今年春天,梅尔尼克将在墓前播下万寿菊、菊花和薰衣草的种子。娜塔莉娅的孩子们将无缘目睹花开。"那个柔弱的女人是如何承受这一切的?"拉里莎说道,"直到后来,随着年岁渐长——当我自己结婚成家、布置自己的居所、养育自己的孩子时——我才真正明白她内心背负的重量。"

Days after Nataliia’s death, one of her old friends, a fellow evacuee from Pripyat, brought a bouquet of flowers to Chernobyl in her honor. The friend placed them on Valerii’s memorial, telling him that, finally, “Nataliia is with you.” ♦

娜塔莉娅去世几天后,她的一位老友——同样是从普里皮亚季撤离的同伴——带着一束鲜花来到切尔诺贝利,以此向她致敬。这位朋友将花放在瓦列里的纪念碑前,告诉他,终于,“娜塔莉娅和你在一起了。” ♦
Melted and burned sewing machine on a table
Photograph by Serhiy Morgunov

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